Diff question

[bjr4848]

Well,
I've been searchin' for about an hour here and haven't found what i'm looking for. I've had a MP-6 Sports for however long they have been off the market (7 years?) and just bash around with it. Mostly only fix things when they break. I have checked diff gear mesh a couple of times but after reading today seems that I've always allowed more backlash than you want and have just about stripped the back bevel/pinion out. I've already done the 4 small gear upgrade years ago (figured that one out on my own) and sealed them up with o-rings and use silicone oil.
The big question I have is if I rebuild them what is the little set screw that goes into the side of the diff case for ???? Can't find any rebuild directions that mention what it is for.
And while I'm at it is there some excellent write up on rebuilding sealed gear diffs that I haven't found yet? Especially the advice on shimming and what to feel for with backlash/mesh.
Thanks!

 

[godale03]

Hey Man,

I beleive the set screw you are talking about holds the pin in that goes through the ball cup to hold it in place. At least that is how it is on my CR and CRT diffs.

Xtreame RC has an article this month about how to properly shim a diff and a couple of months ago had a good article on how to build/rebuild a diff. Rebuilding a diff is not that hard really. If you have your owners manual all you need to do is disassemble the diff and replace the worn parts put your diff oil in and reassemble the diff according to the manual. If you don't have the manual PM FastEddy or go to RCDocuments.com (that is the site Fasteddy put together for finding RC manuals and such). If you need help just let us know.

Tom

 

[bjr4848]

Thanks,
That's makes sense now about the setscrew now that I think about it. I kind of doubted that it was for any kind of adjustment.

I'll see if I can find the articles at lunch time...

I did take it that this is pretty simple. That I didn't miss much, but I think what I missed out on before is knowing how much backlash to allow and it sounds like from what I've read here at RCNT is that it should be pretty tight but not binding. I've allowed play for years and it finally got me. Adding a shim a couple of years ago could still have me runnin' fine today. Oh well, gotta learn somehow I guess. And I'm thakful that the pinion/bevel set is down to $10 after all these years. I'm waiting for Kyosho to update my order that they found some stock.:ball:

 

[godale03]

Yes you are right. You want your diffs tight, but not binding and you will have to check your diffs periodically for proper mesh as the diff will wear out over time. Sounds like you have it under control. If there is anything else we can help out with here... just let us know.

Tom

 

[bjr4848]

Found the shim article on their web site! Didn't see a rebuild article but I think I understand that part. Looks like it might have been in Sept. 06 "1/8 scale diff how-to".
I'll check their forums before I give up. I got the main thing I wanted to see though - shimming!
Thanks again!

 

[godale03]

No problem my friend. Glad I could help.

Tom

 

[Badsneaker]

bjr I have the MP6 manual if you need a copy. Let me know.

Jon

 

[bjr4848]

I've still got my MP6 Sports manual so thanks anyway.