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Diff question.........

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chrisexv6

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Tore apart the rear diff to add the spring mod, and now after I put it back together I noticed that it will bind if I push the input shaft in.

If the input shaft is pulled out all the way (it only moves about 1/2 mm), everything is fine.

Is this normal? I dont think I lost any shims (well, I didnt find any, so hard to lose nothing), but I could be wrong (if somehow they got stuck on a paper towel and accidentally thrown away).

I gotta start remembering to play with stuff before I take it apart, then I can tell whats normal.

-Chris
 
You could have lost a shim but you also could have assembled something improperly. Disassemble and reassemble your diff completely and see if it works.
 
Do you have the trans (I meant diff) diagram?

- bomber
 
Last edited:
There isn't a whole lot in there you can f'up. 2 spiders, 2 outdrives, a pinion, a ring gear, a shaft, a cup and a few shims... they all only go in certain places. (I guess it is quite a few parts!)

I think it always binds when you push the input drive in. It binds the input gear with the ring gear. Once you put your cvd on, it (the cvd end) keeps it (the input shaft) from moving inward and binding like that.

I just noticed the same thing when I was rebuilding my diffs with a maximizer cup.
 
Originally posted by olds97_lss
There isn't a whole lot in there you can f'up. 2 spiders, 2 outdrives, a pinion, a ring gear, a shaft, a cup and a few shims... they all only go in certain places. (I guess it is quite a few parts!)

I think it always binds when you push the input drive in. It binds the input gear with the ring gear. Once you put your cvd on, it (the cvd end) keeps it (the input shaft) from moving inward and binding like that.

I just noticed the same thing when I was rebuilding my diffs with a maximizer cup.

Even with the driveshaft on, it will go in far enough to bind up. But even if I were missing a shim, a shim would just cause the input shaft to be pushed in farther, which is whats causing the problem to begin with. I dont think shimming anything else would prevent that, but I could be wrong.

As far as re-assembly, I checked and re-checked. Things got a little better when I coated the input and ring gears with bearing grease (very light coating, like was on there when it first came apart), but I'm still getting the binding if the input shaft is pushed back.

Anything I could be missing? The innards work fine, as long as that shaft isnt pushed in. Even with one half of the case on, you can see it all works good unless that input shaft slides in.

-Chris
 
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