CVD help

[Plaidfish]

Last nite I finally got to track test my truggy for the first time since it's been rebuilt....I had to use the stock traxxas tierods for the steering and rear carriers but I'm having issues w/ the front CVDs popping out...it looks like the arms are too short (yes they are the right ones) to adjust the toe to where I like and the pillow balls are too far out to compensate for this....as the SHOCK tower (yes RPM tower) flexes it's pulling on theA-Arm (also RPM) and it's moving just enough to alow the CVD to pull out of the out drive at the Diff......I found some Dubro ends that fit but was wondering if anyone ever used these and are they durable......they wil give me the small extra length I need to shorten the pillow balls and keep the CVD set inthe outdrive more securely......any one have any thoughts on this or know of another cure for the issue??

BTW the truggy was WAY COOL....it turns off power like nothing else I have...not even the XB8......I want to race this thing saturdday if I can so help is needed soon....thanks

 

[FastEddy]

What CVDs do you have?
There is a difference in the length from the original T and the 2.5.
The original T has shorter A-Arms and CVDs.

Just a thought.

 

[Plaidfish]

no they're the MIP shiney ones for the 2.5......they fit fine but when I run 4 shocks onthe towers they can flex inward and gives the arms just enough of a twist to let them pop out.....I might have to run aluminum towers as well.....I'm hoping the ends will correct the length issues....I checked all the tie-rod lengths and they are the correct ones....I was surprised this happened cause usually you can flex whatever was giving way and pop the CVD back in when this happens....I was gonna bend something when I tried doing this.....

 

[FastEddy]

Will it help if you limit the down travel of the a-arms?
I remember I had an issue like this with my Maxx but it was so long ago I forgot what I did...

 

[Plaidfish]

yeah that was my original plan...I used 4 integy shocks on the inside of the towers...last nite I went to the track and found the shocks to be too much the way I had them set up...it was real bouncy cause the springs on the insides were too stiff....I took off the integy shocks and have Kyosho 1/8 scale shocks on the outer mounts...they are way longer and I get more droop than before...this is part of the flexing problem since the whole unit can just drop when it gets in the air....then landing I think is where it pops out.....I think I'm finding out the pains of R&D that large companies should have gone through before releasing a product......every time I think I got it nailed something else pops up....I still haven't got my rear brakes working on this beast yet either.........I'd go back to the 8 shock setup but it handles SOOO nice w/ the 4...it lets it sit a lil lower and not traction roll anymore....even w/ new bowties I was hugging corners tighter than my buggy will.....I'm really looking forward to racing this on sat....even if I have to rig up limit straps or something cheesy like that......oh yeah and I already have fuel tubing inside the shock as well....but it still bottoms out the shock......need longer tube I gueass...

 

[FastEddy]

Use spacers on the inside of the shock.
They make spacers just for this. You will take the shafts out and slide the spacers over the shaft, under the disk, then re-install the shaft into the body. There are kits that have several different lengths included or you can use washers of the proper size fit over the shock shaft. Make sure they are even from side to side.
If you don't know what I'm talking about I can dig up a link.
Bottoming out of the shaft is just something you will need to deal with.
Fuel tubing on the outside of the shaft is a quick fix but doesn't work near as well.

 

[vbgagnon]

Fuel tubing works great too!

 

[Plaidfish]

Ed, I did use the fuel tubing onthe inside of the shock body as you described....I also use 2 plastic spacers from T-maxx Castor adjustments on top and bottom of the tubing....I think I know why I'm having the isues I am.....the problem is in the pillow balls having to be adj out so far to lessen the Toe effect the steering linkage has on it.....and I couldn't see why it would be any different on this chassis vs. a stock chassis.....the steering kit is mounted a lil bit further back than a stock chassis setup.....it has to be because I'm using the stock pro-line bar for the steering knuckles to connect to each other and I'm running trophy class diffs.....those diffs needed a special link bar to clear the bottom of the cases.....since these are mounted back further I think that shortened my total distance on the linkage (tie-rod) and is giving me that crazy toe angle so I needed to increase my pillow ball length from the A-Arm.....I wish I could post pics to show you guys...this explanation sucks...sorry....Basically I need to lengthen the Tie-rods just a lil bit to get the steering knuckles in closer to the A-arms......if I can safely do that I should be set....

 

[beason]

yea what he said.. lol

sounds like a project..

 

[Plaidfish]

it has been......for like 8 months now....it's starting to wear thin.....I just want it to be done already.....and work too....

 

[FastEddy]

I remember now what the issue was on my Maxx.....
Did you look to see if the pillow balls were to far out? ...........

 

[Plaidfish]

Hey I think my pillow nuts are too soft or something.......
Smartass....lol
yeah it's fun when you decide to be different right???

 

[FastEddy]

Hey I think my pillow nuts are too soft or something.......

Have you tried screwing, in your pillow nuts? :idea:

 

[Plaidfish]

seriously, yes I did but the tie-rods need to be longer or I get this crazy toe angle I can't adjust out.....
on the sarcastic tip:
yeah I screwed w/ em all night and they're too sore now to see if it did any good....maybe you could check em for me?....but use extreme caution as they maybe got too much attention and need to rest a bit.....