Creality Ender 3 V3 SE headaches.

[biggman100]

I would tell you to flip your bed over and print directly on the glass. But you'd tell me you've tried that a bunch of times, then proceed to tell me why doing that doesn't work for you because you have a dog barking outside or something. But everybody I know that uses an Ender has thanked me for telling them to flip that stupid textured bed and print on glass. But none of them used those stupid bed leveling devices either.

Except, mine doesn't have glass, it has a magnetic metal plate, and the base, and that's how all of the one I have comes from the manufacturer. This is literally all mine has (and, no, I'm not buying a glass plate, mainly because I have cats, and that's an issue I don't need):

 

[biggman100]

I just learned something new, or, it might just be my printer, but, black PLA will only print at 220 or above, which, honestly, it makes me nervous it being that high for more than a couple minutes.

 

[BustedAw11]

Actually, I have a better idea. Here is the link where I downloaded the trailer files from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857561/files

I'm going to give this a go on my ender 3.

I just learned something new, or, it might just be my printer, but, black PLA will only print at 220 or above, which, honestly, it makes me nervous it being that high for more than a couple minutes.

I run black pla the same temp as every other color pla.. so long as its the same brand it all prints the same.

 

[biggman100]

I'm going to give this a go on my ender 3.




I run black pla the same temp as every other color pla.. so long as its the same brand it all prints the same.

Actually, it starts to print, and, roughly 5 minutes in, it screws up. The only colors I have successfully printed anything in are white, blue and yellow, other than one Benchy in black. I bought the filament in a early Christmas deal, buy two get one free, so I'm assuming they are from the same company.

 

[WickedFog]

I just learned something new, or, it might just be my printer, but, black PLA will only print at 220 or above,

I don't know who told you that, but they are one of the 1000 people you shouldn't listen to, and they probably learned that from a guy on YT who has his printer wearing tennis balls on its feet.

 

[biggman100]

I don't know who told you that, but they are one of the 1000 people you shouldn't listen to, and they probably learned that from a guy on YT who has his printer wearing tennis balls on its feet.

No, actually that was straight from trying different settings. I can (at least, I could), get blue, yellow and white to print at 210, but, if the nozzle isn't kept at 220, it won't print black. However, that also went out the window, since, now, it won't print what I was trying to print in any color. This thing is absolutely beyond inconsistent. I was able to let in run over 2.5 hours, and print some stuff, then, next attempt, like always, failed. Today, I didn't bother cleaning the bed, making any adjustments except nozzle temp, don't bother auto leveling it, or doing the paper trick. The only thing I did was let it preheat the nozzle to 210, and the bed to 60 before each successful print, which it did, 3 times, and, even doing those steps, and only those steps, nothing successful since, so I just don't get it at all.

These took more than 2.5 hours to finish and were done all at the same time.

Each one of these (first the white, then the blue) took 38 minutes.

And, this took roughly 8 minutes (and nothing successful since, even with a glue stick).

On a more personal note, unlike most, I don't get much out of YT, or even TV. I absorb things much better by reading than anything else. Frankly, I can't stand that everything is by video now.

 

[biggman100]

This is getting amusing, at least to me. Creality just replied to my last message, but, now they are saying the opposite of before. Before, they said up the temp little by little, now it's lower it.

Dear Customer

Thank you for your email.

Regarding the issue you mentioned, please check the following steps:

1. Check if the consumables are damp: Damp consumables can cause moisture to vaporize during printing, leading to melt breakage, abnormal flow, and stringing. The consumables need to be dried and stored in a sealed container with unexpired desiccant.

They aren't. They are kept in sealed bags with dessicant when the printer is off, per their instructions.

2. Check the retraction settings: If the retraction distance is too short or the speed is too slow, the consumables may flow out of the nozzle during empty runs. The retraction length is generally recommended to be no more than 2mm (or 6-10mm depending on the consumable characteristics), and the retraction speed should be set to 20~100mm/s (or 60-100mm/s, depending on material testing).

Already done that multiple times, again, per their instructions. They had to give me step by step instructions on how to even do that.

3. Adjust the printing temperature: Excessive nozzle temperature can reduce the viscosity of the consumables, making them prone to flowing out and stringing. The temperature needs to be appropriately lowered (e.g., for PLA, lower the temperature by 5-10℃ in 5℃ increments).

Before, it was raise it, to the point where static temp is 200, from the original 190. Now, they want me to lower it. Ok then.

4. Optimize Model Idle Run and Platen Placement: Long idle run distances, large platen spacing, or special structures can increase idle run time, causing molten material to drip. Reduce model spacing and enable the "Avoid Crossing Exterior Walls" function to prevent long idle runs.

Again, already did that with their instructions, multiple times.

5. Check Consumable and Nozzle Parameters: When using low-density consumables (such as foamed PLA), lower the printing temperature and flow rate ratio (0.5~0.7). If the nozzle diameter is too large or worn, ensure the slice configuration matches the actual nozzle, or replace the nozzle.

Have no clue what foamed PLA even is, but, ok. As for the nozzle, it's what, 17 days old, and only successfully printed less than 8 hours total.


My last thoughts on it. I thought the Ender 3 Pro I bought used (original, not the newer V1 Pro, that needed a bunch of new parts before I could even try and use it. It's why I bought the other one that I have now), was becoming a headache. Boy, was I ever wrong.

 

[WickedFog]

This thread is locked due to the OP yet again simply wanting to argue instead of listen.