Cooling holes in body.

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pitbull14218

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How important is cutting holes in the body to help cool the Engine?

I cut out the side Windows of the body, but never the front windshield, just curious if I should change that.

Above the Engine I cut a hole for starting it although most the time i pull the body off because it's pull start and takes some effort to finally get it started (numerous pulls).
 
How important is cutting holes in the body to help cool the Engine?

I cut out the side Windows of the body, but never the front windshield, just curious if I should change that.

Above the Engine I cut a hole for starting it although most the time i pull the body off because it's pull start and takes some effort to finally get it started (numerous pulls).

It helps big time for the air to flow to dissipate the heat!

rc_019.jpg
 
Agreed.....the absolute best hole I've found is a round hole...a round hole keeps rigidity to the body and prevents cracks
 
Very important to keep airflow across the engine head, or it will definitely run hot. I also use round holes to help maintain the structural integrity of the body. Sharp corners will cause the body to tear as well, always round the corners.
 
Is it worth cutting a whole on a vehicle such as a Savage as there is already a lot of airflow under the body?
 
Yes just as important if not more
 
You will see a big difference in motor temps! It's a must!
 
Ok, looks like I'm going to cut open the windesheild and maybe do something with the grill area.

Now how long can you be at wide open throttle with these nitro engines? If the tune is proper, and has proper cooling holes in the body, any chance at overheating?
 
There is always a chance of overheating... The best thing I can suggest is for you to check your temps often until you know what your rig can do and not do. Go slowly to get up to when you are running at w.o.t. for a length of time. Make sure you don't run too lean while you run hard like that or you will blow the motor up. If you don't have one, I Def recommend a digital thermometer so you know where your temps are at.
 
Tune the HSN so that you are still "not lean" at the end of your longest WOT run. If when you end your WOT run, when you get off the trigger, the engine immediately drops back to a low idle, your HSN is correct. If the idle hangs high, you are too lean.

The engine does hold fuel / air in the crankcase that it will consume in a long WOT run. This will be replenished at idle if your LSN is set correctly.

Running a continuous WOT run is not good for the engine.

There is always a chance of overheating... The best thing I can suggest is for you to check your temps often until you know what your rig can do and not do. Go slowly to get up to when you are running at w.o.t. for a length of time. Make sure you don't run too lean while you run hard like that or you will blow the motor up. If you don't have one, I Def recommend a digital thermometer so you know where your temps are at.

At least do the spit test. Put some spit on the top of the cooling head, if it sizzles away immediately you are too hot. If the spit bubbles away slowly, you are safe.
 
Holes are necessary to stop the engine from overheating, circles keep the rigidity of the body.
 
I do have a digital temp gauge, I usually tune it for 220 -240 degrees. And check the temp after a WOT run.
 
Those temps are Def within a safe range. The next thoughts are just to be sure that you keep your motor tuned rich enough to keep it lubed well. Unfortunately, like all mechanized assemblies, if you run it at its full potential for long periods of time, it is likely to get damaged. I would be checking the whole car's hardware and blue locktite everything metal on metal. To run wot regularly would requires a motor teardown regiment of some sort to be sure your internals are in good order and spec. I don't know what that regiment might be however... I guess it depends on usage... Its either that or keep the motor tunes and beat the everliving snot out of it until it finally has a spectacular death with a rod blown thru the top of the piston and right thru the head!!! Or something equally cool that you can brag about! It's really up to you as far as how you feel about your current setup and of course your monitary situation. You can always go bigger and higher rpms when you need another mill! Whatever you do, wot videos ROCK and we need to see them!!! Best of luck with your rig!
 
Those temps are Def within a safe range. The next thoughts are just to be sure that you keep your motor tuned rich enough to keep it lubed well. Unfortunately, like all mechanized assemblies, if you run it at its full potential for long periods of time, it is likely to get damaged. I would be checking the whole car's hardware and blue locktite everything metal on metal. To run wot regularly would requires a motor teardown regiment of some sort to be sure your internals are in good order and spec. I don't know what that regiment might be however... I guess it depends on usage... Its either that or keep the motor tunes and beat the everliving snot out of it until it finally has a spectacular death with a rod blown thru the top of the piston and right thru the head!!! Or something equally cool that you can brag about! It's really up to you as far as how you feel about your current setup and of course your monitary situation. You can always go bigger and higher rpms when you need another mill! Whatever you do, wot videos ROCK and we need to see them!!! Best of luck with your rig!
It's an older nitro MT1 With the .15fe motor, 1sod tranny. Is like to swap in a 2sod tranny and a bigger Engine, so I'd like to keep this Engine living but it's old and when it fails I'm sure it lived long enough already, and I won't be upset when it dies.
 
So you're good to go with upgrades anyways... With an older motor, if you want to keep it going, watch the wot times. Keep it cool and maybe plan on doing a rebuild if the parts are available. Piston, sleeve, bearings etc... If you end up blowing that motor up at high rpms, the possibility of unrepairable damage will Def increase.
 

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