Comparing apples to oranges?? Need advice!

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Jorrob29

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Hey guys, so i have officially decided to pull the trigger on a bad-boy RC.... Wondering what y'all's opinions are, or recommendations between a few of my choices? I want lipo/electric. Preferably 3s and up.
Been looking at the:
Traxxas Stampede 4x4
Arrma Outcast stunt truck
Arrma Typhon 3s/6s 4x4
Arrma notorious 6s
Arrma Kraton 4s

Please give any input u have if you have owned any of the above, any comparisons between models, or anything you regret. Thanks all!
 
I have 3 Stampede's "one is 2wd" and I agree, I wish they had longer wheel bases also.
On the positive side, they are a blast to run and with a ton of upgrade parts available its well worth the money. The two 4x4s are unassembled kits that were easy and enjoyable to build.
 
I heard from my local hobby shop that there is a way to extend the chassis. I declined because I was afraid I would not be able to repair the vehicle years from now. They had already stopped making wide control arms for that model.
 
Here is my Stampede 4x4 VXL with the 2016 Ford F250 Super Duty body, meant more for a T Maxx/E Maxx. IMG_0967.JPG
 
I have never been a fan of the Stampede. Of your list, as long replacement parts readily available, I would get the Notorious. I am a fan of the Desert/Short Course style trucks. Did you check out the Mojave 6S BLX?
 
Hey guys, so i have officially decided to pull the trigger on a bad-boy RC.... Wondering what y'all's opinions are, or recommendations between a few of my choices? I want lipo/electric. Preferably 3s and up.
Been looking at the:
Traxxas Stampede 4x4
Arrma Outcast stunt truck
Arrma Typhon 3s/6s 4x4
Arrma notorious 6s
Arrma Kraton 4s

Please give any input u have if you have owned any of the above, any comparisons between models, or anything you regret. Thanks all!
I know I will get a bunch of crap for this, but, unless you like constant repairs and upgrades, avoid anything Traxxas. I currently have 3 Arrma's, a long discontinued first gen Fury, a Granite 3S, and a Senton 3S, and, while I do like them, and they are somewhat durable, and parts are easy to source when they do break, their biggest selling point for me was how easy they are to work on. My ultimate choice of vehicle though, for many reasons, are DHK Hobby. I have 5 of their vehicles, 2 Hunter SCT's, a Wolf 2 buggy, a Raz-R Truggy, a Zombie 8E truggy, and a Crosse monster truck, and, as I am very rough on my vehicles, they seem to take the most punishment. The only thing I have actually broke on them is the center diff in the Hunter trying to run it in 2WD, and a spur in the Hunter, the spur in the Crosse, both of which stripped due to the gears being out of mesh, and that is about it. I have videos on YouTube of me pounding on the Hunter at a skate park and a bmx track, and the Wolf at a bmx track, and they haven't broken a single chassis or suspension part, and I routinely run them on 3S. I haven't taken any videos of the Crosse or Zombie yet, but, the Hunter, Zombie, and Crosse share a lot of parts, which makes it easier when buying spares. The only downside is that the only place so far to get the cars and parts in the states is RC Hobby Explosion, but they ship quick, and parts are extremely cheap when you do need them.
 
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To be honest, anything you buy will break if abused or not used as intended.

I have an outcast 6S, ERBEv2 , Savage Flux HP, Stampede 4x4 vxl I run on 3S and converted eJato I run on 3S. All of them have their own headaches. Pound for pound, the ERBEv2 required the least amount of aftermarket... but I never ran stock electronics as I got mine used and used stuff I had.

If you want the toughest out of the box, then likely a Tekno MT410 (outcast 6S size) or Tekno ET48.3 would likely be it. They use top notch parts for everything, but it comes at a high premium. And you have to build/paint them as well as get your own electronics/wheels/tires.

If you want really good parts support and customer warranty support, then arrma or traxxas is a good way to go.

My issues with the arrma 3S/4S line is the arms are kind of fragile, the diffs are composite, the axles blow apart unless you really fiddle with the slipper.

My issues with the 6S line is the chassis is made out of butter grade alloy, the diff ring gear is thin with small teeth, pinions are small OD with small teeth. Out of the box, if you want to bash them hard, they all need a 7075 chassis, diffs torn town/re-shimmed/filled, alloy chassis braces and better shock towers.

With traxxas, stuffs just retardedly expensive, but generally built ok, except for the 3S trucks having horrible axles. They got better with the 4wd rustler, and I haven't tried those, but the ones on my stampede 4x4 sucked. $120 later and MIP's, and I was happy with those.

At the end of the day, kind of depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want to run in grass a lot, at a track, just bash around at skate parks/bmx tracks? If you run in grass a lot, I'd lean towards a 6S truck as they are typically a bit taller and have the extra horsepower to deal with the drag.
 
Idk what happened but a lot of things not supposed to be here are here
 
That’s my rustler with A green body it’s the apple
 
Thanks, I took it out for a speed run on anacondas and I don’t really know what happened, it tumbled and whenever I can get home, the transfer case gets an aluminum upgrade cause it blew the dog ear control arm mount into pieces when she landed, also since that pic it’s gotten an rpm front bumper and a cooling fan, with my gearing it’s doing about 90, but I’m thinking about bringing it back to the 70 bracket, it is way too easy to snap plastic parts with all the aluminum on it
 
Moving the ESC to the front helps keep the front tyres on the ground, exponential difference. On one of them, I drilled 2 holes in the hood of a Rustler body and mounted a low profile scoop. The fan sucks the air right in. In my race circuit, no Rustler built by me is using a wheelie bar. It can still kick up from 40 mph, but we learn where to put the hammer on the straights.
 
Moving the ESC to the front helps keep the front tyres on the ground, exponential difference. On one of them, I drilled 2 holes in the hood of a Rustler body and mounted a low profile scoop. The fan sucks the air right in. In my race circuit, no Rustler built by me is using a wheelie bar. It can still kick up from 40 mph, but we learn where to put the hammer on the straights.
I’m actually working on plumbing a functional ram air for cooling, along with blobs of clay for counter balance but it straight pulls the nose to 12 o’clock no matter what or how I throttle , right now it’s running like nothing sits on the front end but air.... I guess that’s the joy of power to weight ratios
 
The stock Rustler handled like a wheel chair when I finally tried taking one to the limits. RPM makes a plastic front bulkhead that allows for filling. We're not using them yet. We're all running Anaconda tyres front and rear, but for the more level courses, we're next going to try Bandito ST 2.8 for the rear for extra stickiness. It will probably be still a drift race, but more grip for the turns in the back will allow for a little more pepper coming out of cornering.
My race Rustler has the 4000kv motor. It hangs out the the left a bit, so I added a little more spring tension to the left rear spring. Here's my racer : https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/trying-it-your-way.127300/post-1257954. I photographed the other kid's car, but since he is a member here, I have been asking if he will post them. He is running the Velineon system.
 
The stock Rustler handled like a wheel chair when I finally tried taking one to the limits. RPM makes a plastic front bulkhead that allows for filling. We're not using them yet. We're all running Anaconda tyres front and rear, but for the more level courses, we're next going to try Bandito ST 2.8 for the rear for extra stickiness. It will probably be still a drift race, but more grip for the turns in the back will allow for a little more pepper coming out of cornering.
My race Rustler has the 4000kv motor. It hangs out the the left a bit, so I added a little more spring tension to the left rear spring. Here's my racer : https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/trying-it-your-way.127300/post-1257954. I photographed the other kid's car, but since he is a member here, I have been asking if he will post them. He is running the Velineon system.
I checked out those pics , I love that set up, beautifully done
 
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