Center Diff Q

[El Pirata]

I was thinking about using jb-weld on my center diff so that the same amount of power will go to both the front and rear diffs. I had been using 10,000 wt diff fluid but it eventually softens up and then the performance that was attained is lost. Anyone have any insite on using jb-weld for the center diff?

 

[1meathead]

I wouldn't think it would be a good idea. I would first try like 50,000 and then when that works in it will be like 20,000 this way you could go back to other stuff if you don't like it.

 

[El Pirata]

My line of thinking was that it would be just like having a solid shaft in the center instead of a stupid diff.

 

[lykan]

When you land on the front wheels, with the throttle open, and all wheels spinning. The front will be forced to stop while the rear is spinning free. I could see the inertia of the rear axle, tires and gears snapping a shaft, or blowing your welded center diff.

I'm not too sure how much inertia these things have.

 

[Error401]

Another alternative to JB is Silly Putty. I haven't done it myself, but I heard it's better than totally locking the diff. If you really want a locked diff, I have a GPM diff lock that'll probably work. It replaces the spider gears altogether with a machined aluminum spool. NIB, never installed.

I'd still try the silly putty first before you lock the works together.

 

[El Pirata]

Hmmm, silly putty, not just for kids. I'll try that.

 

[dgrobe2112]

Well, locking your diff. is just asking for problems.. why not go with a center slipper.. instead of locking the diff.. that way it will help when landing jumps.. with a locked diff.. you land your jumps.. on power or anything like that.. your are gonna bread drive shafts.. axels.. or your front and rear diffs.. dont understand the reasoning behind locking the diff.. run a thicker oil.. like 50k, or something like aht

 

[El Pirata]

The oil leaks out. I've landed plenty of huge jumps on both my t-maxx and my savage, both with forward only and have never broken anything within the drive train as a result.

 

[dgrobe2112]

ok, if you think it will work.. then go ahead.. why do you think all the Tmaxx guys are running into diff probs when they change to a .21?

 

[El Pirata]

I have a 21 t-maxx that has had zero drive train problems.

 

[dgrobe2112]

does your tmaxx have a slipper??

 

[El Pirata]

Yes, but it's locked down.

 

[dgrobe2112]

gotcha

 

[El Pirata]

As a matter of fact, the drive train on all my RC's is probably the only thing I have not broken. At least nothing as a result of bashing.

 

[1meathead]

Not try to start with you but why are T people going to 1/8 diffs then and why would they even make diffs. that can be filled with silicone if it is better to lock them? I don't know that much about the T so maybe you could help me out on this ?

 

[El Pirata]

No clue but I want the performance upgrade rather than a slip feature.

 

[1meathead]

Cool just didn't know if it worked that much better.

 

[El Pirata]

Having a center diff instead of a transmission allows power to go to the path of least resistance (the least traction). In a jam you can have your front wheel spinning like there's no tomorrow and your rear wheels standing there doing nothing. By locking the center diff you will be able to allow all the power from the engine to go to the front and rear diffs at the same time so mo matter what you still have traction on both the front and rear ends.

 

[Error401]

First off, the main reason for the center diff on a 1/8th buggy is for brake bias (different brake rates for front and rear). This is impossible if the center diff is locked. From what I gather in this regard, you set the brake adjustment so that there's more brake action on the rear than the front. this is so the front wheels don't completely lock up at full brake, but the rears do (or nearly so). If they're set up like this, getting it to enter a powerslide is much easier and the loss of steering control at full brakes is lessened.

But, if you're bashing you might not need this feature. I run 100K in my center diff on my lightning and it does OK by me.

As to why you'd lock the diffs, the main reason would be if you're rock climbing with a MT. Even 30-50K silicone will allow the diffs to spin the wheel in the air and not let ya rock crawl. I have read about crawlers that lock all the diffs. This would let ya crawl like a tick, but steering at anything over a crawl pace will put undo stress on the drive train and make it steer like a brick.

 

[El Pirata]

After a long consult with Error over the phone I opted to try 100,000 in the center diff, 50,000 in the rear and 30,000 in the front. Let's hope this works.

Oh yeah, if this doesn't work I'm coing to hunt you down like the dog you are...