Buying an On-Road

[CSDominion]

I'll have the new tank before I'm done with the motor break in - I just dont wanna play tower hobbies shipping on just the tank. Its too much of a pain to get to my LHS and hope that I'm not ignoerd when I can't find something on their "wall of mess" they call parts.

 

[rossb]

The tank should qualify for Parts Express $3.99 shipping. Get that, the filter, and an extra plug. All of those should be Parts Express. www.hobbyguyrc is also cheap and he has good service. He has an ebay store and sometimes auctions up some parts a little cheaper than his site. Check it out.

 

[CSDominion]

Will this be enough airflow? I'd really like to keep the windshield solid, mainly for looks, but strength as well.

 

[rossb]

I would tend to say no. Plus you will not be able to refuel with the body on. Cut a hole in the windshield for airflow and tank access. You will need to flip that tank around, better yet get the race tank. I would also cut a hole in the side window.

Hole should be like these:
http://www.rbartick.com/hpi/c5_17.jpg
http://www.rbartick.com/hpi/gt_09.jpg

Make sure you get your permanent tank before cutting the hole.

 

[CSDominion]

I usually pull the body for refuel - but I guess if I will be racing, I'll need to leave it on

 

[CSDominion]

this tank?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJFE2&P=7
That is for the MT2 but didnt know if it would fit. I can't seem to find a primerless tank for the RS4


What type of plug do you run ross?

 

[rossb]

I do not have access to Tower here at work so I am not sure what you linked to. The tank is part # 72525. 75cc racing tank, no primer, fuel output line at the top right behind the filler cap. This is a perfect fit in the vehicle. The fuel line from the tank to the carb will be very short.

I use the stock HPI medium plug part # 1705. Tower sells them. My experiences with the HPI plugs in three of my motors has been very good so I am sticking with them. They seem to run well, they hold a good idle, and they last a very long time. An HPI plug lasted for over 2 gallons in a S-25. My 18ss is over the 1 gallon mark and I just replaced the original break-in plug with another 1705.

 

[CSDominion]

bummer 72525 isnt in stock until "early may" so not sure when tower will get em

 

[rossb]

Try www.hobbyguyrc.com

http://www.hobbyguyrc.com/catalog/hpi_nitro_rs4_3_75cc_racing_fuel_tank_3329548.htm

Search for eBay to see if hobbyguyrc has this part up for auction. He offers lower shipping on his eBay purchases.

 

[Revo Rancher]

CSD, as to airflow, you might want to open up the hole a little bit more where your antenna and exhaust tip go through. Every little bit helps. And of course opening up the windshield for the fuel tank will help a lot. Also, lower that body somemore. The more the head sticks out the better it will cool.

But do like rossb says; do not cut the windshield until you decide on your tank options, or at least turn the stock one around if you keep it.

I am about to do up a Ford GT body, and I do not want to cut the front window either as I want it solid for downforce. I plan to fashion up some NACA ducts for the hood to hopefully draw in more air. I'll let you know if it works.

 

[CSDominion]

Went to LHS - bought the motor saver air filter (same thing as the HPI one) and a fuel filter, new 75cc primerless tank, and some neon green fuel lines

I'll get that stuff installed tonight, then cut the hole for the fuel tank. I havent cut the antena hole yet, as I dont have the radio box installed.

The body can't go any lower, its already lower than the frame base. If I go lower, it will rub the body on the ground when I drive LOL

That image, and this one have the largest spacer in the springs, just temporarily until I get the radio box and battery in and actually adjust everything as it will sit.

 

[CSDominion]

I am about to do up a Ford GT body, and I do not want to cut the front window either as I want it solid for downforce. I plan to fashion up some NACA ducts for the hood to hopefully draw in more air. I'll let you know if it works.

I was thinking about cutting the front grill area out, and making some duct work that would push air over the motor, then covering it with a screen to keep road/track junk out.

Not sure if I wanna go through all that trouble now or try that on the next lid though. I'm DYING to get this thing running !

 

[rossb]

Your body does look a bit high off the wheels and it is certainly higher in the front than it is in the rear. Hopefully you cut the fuel access hole after installing the new tank. The new tank's lid sits further back than the old tank's lid. Set your ride height according to your surface. A normal parking lot will need about 10 mm of height. A grommed track calls for about 6mm of height.

 

[CSDominion]

I havent cut the hole or installed the tank yet (I'm still at work) That will come in a couple hours.

The wheels fit the body nice when the suspension is set correctly. I put the large spacers in to keep from scracthing the dinning room table only Wife wouldnt be too happy with that. (Dinning room table was the best light I had for taking the photos)

I'll be setting the car to 10mm clearance once the rx/servos are in.

 

[rossb]

Sounds great. Paint that body and post some pics.

 

[CSDominion]

got the tank, and fuel filter installed last night, along with air filter - cut the body again for the fuel tank. Also set the suspension to about 10mm so it sits correctly in the body. Adjusted the body posts again - then washed, masked and painted the flourescent green (damn that stuff is BRIGHT!) I either had a cleaning issue, or the paint was too thick, or the hair dryer dried the paint too fast - as I have a few spots with "bubbles" where it didnt adhere properly. I'm sure it wont show up in photos though Besides, I'll end up beating the crap out of this first body as I get used to this whole on-road thing LOL

I'll post pics when I'm done. I have pics of the "Green" step - need to do some black pain on the underside of the rear, then back the whole thing in white. Painting should be done tonight or tomorrow. Probably tomorrow as I'll have to do the decals as well after the paint dries.

 

[rossb]

I use a little steel wool on the inside of the painted surfaces before I paint. This roughens up the surface and allows the paint to stick better. Do not use the steel wool on the clear window areas and you will not see the little scratches after painting. Wash the inside of the body with a grease cutting soap like Dawn before you paint. I wash the body and then carefully put on the window masks. I use Fantastic on a paper towl to get rid of any finger marks I create when putting on the masks. The first few coats should be very light and you should allow each coat to dry about 30 minutes. I do not use a hair dryer and I would not recommend using one. The next few coats can be a little bit thicker. I give the thicker coats even more time to dry. I usually use a 3-oz spray can for the main color and maybe another can for a backing color if the main color seems to be transparent. Stripes can also be a full can if I back the body with the stripe color. It takes me all day to apply the paint. I made the mistake of using white as the final backing color for one of my bodies. I will not do that again because the inside of a TC gets filthy very quickly and white shows all the grime.

 

[CSDominion]

yeah I forgot to re-clean after the window masks This being body #2 - its still a learning curve I did use dish soap to clean the first time though. I used a 3 oz. can in two coats, so I'm sure I put it on too thick! I plan to back 2 coats of sprint white, then a coat of black over that for protection and appearance.

Some guys here at work asked me how the fluorescent green came out though (Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Fluorescent Green) so I had the wife pull the pics from teh camera and email me at work

 

[rossb]

One can in two coats is much too thick. You should be able to get around 10 coats with one 3-oz can. The first few coats should be very light and they should be allowed to dry fully before the next coat.

You should think about rounding the edges of your fuel tank cut out. A squared edge may split if you crash.

 

[CSDominion]

thats the blue painters tape I put on to make sure the window mask didnt leak - the tank hole barely goes into the window - and is almost a perfect shape with rounded corners. I used a dremel and my conical stone bit to smooth all the edges on the body before I sprayed - including rounding out every corner that was cut. The finished product will be easier to see the hole.