Bump Start set up.....

[TalonOne]

Ok I am acquiring a few engines that are bump start and I have purchased an Ofna Chrome starter.

I have it assembled and working but my question is .....how do you set up the topside to make bump starting easy.


I seem to be burning up the rubber wheel and having little if any luck starting my engines. I have read a bunch on the net and played with it some ...but I always say F it and go to one on of my roto start rigs......that always start right up.

Any bump start for idiots advice would be appreciated.:bow:

Talon

 

[ImBroken]

It's basically a matter of getting it properly aligned with your flywheel... If these mills are new or just broken in and still tight, try loosening the glowplug a turn or two to release some of the compression. Once it starts, snug up the plug.. There's really no secrets to it.. Good luck..
I found that using a bare chassis to align my pegs worked the best...

 

[Rolex]

Don't just jam it into the wheel. After you have set up your lineup, press down to get it up to speed, then press it to the wheel.

 

[HeartBreak]

I have the same exact starter box that I use with my MBX5, and it's pretty much no different a process to set it up.

First up, you're going to have to do a parts' check. In your parts bags, you should have some parts that look like an oval with a little tiny square on one end. Think of these as a nut. You should have at least 4 of these, 8 if you want to duplicate my setup.

Next, you should have at least 4 screws (8 if copying mine), of the self-tapping variety. These thread through the top pieces, down through the plate, and into the nut, which keys' into the slots.

Finally, you should have two other pieces in the bags. One looks like a toilet, the other looks like a dog dish. You should have four of each of these; focus on the toilet first.

Those are your alignment pegs.

Now, since the starting wheel already sticks a good quarter inch-ish out of the plate to begin with, you're going to have to set it up so the car sits on top of the "toilet seat."

Mine utilizes both the dog dish and the toilet parts, but you can get away without the dog dish parts, simply by rotating the toilet around.

This process can be time consuming; it took me about an hour to get mine exactly straight and just-right. You want them so the car will slide in and out of the pegs easily, yet align just-right when you drop it on the box. Also, the flywheel must be as aligned as much as possible to that rubber wheel. If it's off any little bit, it will generate friction and slow it down.

Once you get the chassis aligned to the rubber wheel, slap your engine back in, and connect up your box's batteries, and enjoy!

 

[TalonOne]

Thanks Guys.....man thanks for th epics HeartBreak....sometime I really do need somebody to "draw me a picture". I have the parts.....so it should be smooth from here.

I will get after it tonight....


thanks again..

Mike

 

[jon2]

One thing to do is to make sure the piston is not at TDC. Get it so the piston is at the bottom. This will help you get the engine started since you are reducing the resistance from the engine.

 

[jetmechG550]

Mark the centerline of your mill on the chassis with a marker, then remove the motor. Loosely set the pegs on the box and set the chassis on them, make sure the wheel comes through the cutout in the chassis with it's highest point exactly where you marked the centerline of the motor. Also make sure you have the plunger portion of the box set high enough that once you start to push down on it, it engages and gets the wheel spinning before making contact with the flywheel. Also make sure you are not pushing too hard. When you set the the pegs, make sure they don't hit the motor inside the box to prevent full travel on the box top. Also, I mark mine with a sharpie before I tighten them to make sure the don't slip or move any when tightening or during use. Best thing out there though and for ease of use is the TKO Starter box plates!

 

[HeartBreak]

No problemo man. That's the only bad thing about the Ofna boxes... They only come with a wiring diagram.

Otherwise, you're gonna love that box. It's heavy, but man, it's awesome. Too bad they don't offer it in black and chrome.

 

[jetmechG550]

HT Batteries Lipo for starter box lightens the thing up a TON!

 

[TalonOne]

Thanks guys ....great advice all...tonight I get started setting it up, as my Jammin 28x came back brand new from Ofna.....and I picked up a JP 3 pipe for it....so I was going to remove the standby engine anyway.

I will let you know how it goes.....again thanks for the info....sooo much better thatn me trying to F&*^ it up on my own....

Mike

 

[Rolex]

...sooo much better thatn me trying to F&*^ it up on my own....

We're all more than willing to F&*^ it up for you. That's what we're here for. No reason to do it on your own.

 

[HeartBreak]

We're all more than willing to F&*^ it up for you. That's what we're here for. No reason to do it on your own.

Just whatever you do, video tape it.... That way, if it goes right, you can brag about it....








But, if it goes wrong, we'd be able to ride you till the next blue moon.....

 

[jetmechG550]

I use an embossing gun (for doing t-shirts) to pre-heat my motors when it's cooler out, running indoor in the winter, or sometimes for first starts. I always use it or a heat gun for break in. It just makes turning over a mill easier. The embossing gun is about $20 and fits right in my pit box or hauler bag and will get a mill to about 150.

 

[TalonOne]

Nice tip...my LHS dude gave the same advice ...especially for break in.

I will have to trot over to Harbor Fright and grab a heat gun.....I think they have one for $20 or so.....ti will help because this Jammin 28x is TIGHT......Just put it all together I can tell its going to be a bugger.

Thanks all...especially Jet....your track experience is invaluable to us noobs out here. Ok back to work setting up the box ...and installing the new mill....I love this part....when stuff is new.

 

[rocknbil]

Aside from the other excellent advice here, one thing I didn't see mentioned is to make absolutely sure the flywheel does not touch the chassis, even a little bit. It's easy to overlook and is the most common cause of "my starter box sucks." If it touches the chassis at all it will stall the box, and the cause won't be that the motors are to weak.

This is easily identified by black skidmarks around the chassis hole.

 

[Rolex]

I love this part....when stuff is new.

I totally agree with you. I almost NEVER buy used because you never know what it's been through. When it's new, it's yours to pamper and take great care of.

rocknbil
This is easily identified by black skidmarks around the chassis hole.

Skid marks around any kind of hole is never a good sign.

 

[jetmechG550]

Aside from the other excellent advice here, one thing I didn't see mentioned is to make absolutely sure the flywheel does not touch the chassis, even a little bit. It's easy to overlook and is the most common cause of "my starter box sucks." If it touches the chassis at all it will stall the box, and the cause won't be that the motors are to weak.

This is easily identified by black skidmarks around the chassis hole.

If it's properly set it shouldn't touch the chassis at all. I'm pretty sure most cuts in chassis', no matter the brand are pretty close to the same. So like rocknbil said, if your hitting the chassis, an adjustment needs to be made.

 

[TalonOne]

Hey Rockin.........good to hear from you....yea I had some of that before getting the sdet up going in the right direction.

I THINK I have it now....hopefully I can start break in tonight...

Thanks for stopping by........we still need to get together sometime and bash...

Mike