Body Mounting

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I don't do anything special, just trim the body and get it where I want it, mark the holes with a sharpie and drill out. Not always perfect, but close enough.
 
Yeah, that's what I've done for years but I found it was often not a very accurate technique when it comes to onroad cars. I mean, I've got them mounted OK doing it from "scratch" but I generally always felt like I was gambling.
 
We've just got a couple trucks, so it's not as big a deal for me. In the past, the bodies haven't lasted too long anyways.
 
Always made a point to trim and them use the sharpie method on the outside before painting. Get it painted up and you still have the marks for your body posts. The harder part for me has been the cutouts for the engines. Its hard to get it perfect as every body has its own original contours and custom shapes
 
That's what's weird. I mounted my lids when they were clear and put little divits using a reamer so I'd have a mark when I was finished painting but when I used the Dynamite system I ended up not using those marks. They were off a bit from the final points (which are nearly perfect).
 
I also just mark them with a sharpie after cutting the body out but I don't ream them until after I paint it. I've never had any significant misalignment yet...*Crosses fingers*
 
What I like about this magnetized system is that it holds the body in place so it does not slide around. Since I started doing onroad I've noticed how common it is for the hood to be quite sloped where the body posts will come through and the body sometimes wants to slide down. Besides, the clearance is soo tight on a touring car. Every mm counts. The last TC I did I aligned and marked prior to paint and it ended up being off for some reason. I actually shimmed my rear shock tower rearward to get it to line up properly and not force me to cut out my rear wheel wells excessively. This time it came out spot on the money
 
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