better turning radius on ax10???

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beason

Bash, Fix, Repeat..
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on my axial, the wheels turn almost as far as they will go before rubbing the servo or battery, and it still takes half the yard to turn around.

has anyone ran 4ws on them? the plate for a servo mount is cheep, i have another servo or two, and a splitter harness, so i wont be out alot of money. would this be a good upgrade? I'm only running a 2 channel radio so dig is not an option right now.

also looking to get the eem dual triangulation skid, and have front bent links on the way.

OMG its a sickness!!
 
If you plan on running any comps rear steer is illegal. The best way to get better steering is a behind the axle (bta) steering kit.

also cvds for the front, the stub axle cups hit the driveshafts also limiting steering travel
 
If you plan on running any comps rear steer is illegal. The best way to get better steering is a behind the axle (bta) steering kit.

also cvds for the front, the stub axle cups hit the driveshafts also limiting steering travel

yep....and really beason 4 wheel steering doesn't do as much as it would seem. id say just keep running it for now till you can save up and get a nice dig unit, and a radio with 3ps switch. you can pick up used modded for dig tq3 for between $20-$30 sometimes.
 
yep....and really beason 4 wheel steering doesn't do as much as it would seem. id say just keep running it for now till you can save up and get a nice dig unit, and a radio with 3ps switch. you can pick up used modded for dig tq3 for between $20-$30 sometimes.

+1 on all of this, I am not sure if you can adjust your end points on your radio or not but make sure they are letting you turn as far as possible if you have them, also one mod that I did was to counter sink the screws on the front side of the hub carriers so that the steering knuckle arms can lay flat against them. this gives you some extra turning...
 
i dont have end points but i do have the dual rate knob that changes how far the steering turns and its all the way up. right now on hard right the tire just touches the servo, and hard left it almost touches these little lipo packs.

i know on my e-maxx 4ws is crazy, it will almost turn around in its own length.

i def want to look into the bta steering.. is there a kit out, or is it "run what ya brung" type thing?
i keep smashing the front rod into the rocks.. lol
 
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http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=169&productId=1299

ok i think ima go with that one. it claims to be bolt on with no mods and will work with the stock knuckles and it comes with the battery plate. i think i will get the 4 link plate for the back to.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Axial-AX10-Scorpion-Orange-4-Link-Front-Rear-Plate_W0QQitemZ270358188006QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item270358188006&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1730|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

would wheel spacers help with the turning at all?

can you run the "4 link" plates, and the eem skid?
 
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would this be a good setup? I'm kind of at a loss as to what the location of the rods does...

so the lowers would be narrower in the center and wider at the axle. and the uppers would be closer to parallel instead of triangle..
 
basically yeah. i wouldnt use wideners personally, the wider it gets the more room it had to get hung up on rocks, the wider you lines will have to be and so on....all these little upgrades are good but i think you need to run it alot more and get used to your setup before adding to much more to it, that way you will know what it needs and what it doesn't.
 
The lower links attach to the screws going skid plate which could be any where from the outsice of the chassis to almost in the middle if you are running a EEM skid, the other end of the lower links attach to the axle near the shocks, the upper links attach to the chassis and end to the center of the axle with either the stock Y connecter or a 4 link set up, hope this helps clarify it for you a little better, it can be a little confussing...
 
The lower links attach to the screws going skid plate which could be any where from the outsice of the chassis to almost in the middle if you are running a EEM skid, the other end of the lower links attach to the axle near the shocks, the upper links attach to the chassis and end to the center of the axle with either the stock Y connecter or a 4 link set up, hope this helps clarify it for you a little better, it can be a little confussing...

i guess my comment was confusing, i know which rods are which, but I'm kind of at a loss as to what the position of them does for the crawler. like strait rods, triangle, 4 linked, dual triangle, etc..
 
well forget the triangulation, right off the bat any skid that gets your links to the inside of the chassis is better cuz you dont have them on the outside to get hung up. the main improvement with the eem skid is that it will reduce torque twist, even if you dont notice much now when you get to crawling steep inclines and such you will notice it. torque twist is kinda what kills a shafty, to me atleast. a three link is kinda weak compared to a 4 link and you get more rear axle steer out of a 3 link too, wich isnt good.
 
so the bta steering with 4 link plate, and a the emm dual triangulation plate should get me going pretty well? at least make it stronger?
 
yeah and it will help reduce torque twist, thats one of the biggest improvements a 4 link and triangulated will make...
 
i got the rig used, and the wheels were off of it in the shipping box. i could tell that two of them were a lot heavier then the other two and i put the two heavy ones in the front. I'm not sure exactly how much weight is in there, but it seems like quite a bit. never had a crawler though so it may not be.
 
yeah alot of guys run different amounts of wieght, 14-16oz front wheel with weights and tire is where i like it usually with around a 10 oz in back. just a personal preference though.
 

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