Hey guys I am a total newb to nitro cars. Actually a newb to pretty much all RC cars. Anyways I purchased a Savage X yesterday, and I am very excited to begin the break in. I was just hoping maybe you guys could help me get up to speed? First of all I was reading on another forum talking about "setting the mesh" yourself even though it comes preset. I think they said people were having problems it not being set correctly from the factory in the RTR kits? Does anyone know what they are talking about, and if so how do I do it? I would appreciate any advice anyone has to offer. Like I said i am new to the Nitro cars and want to try to do everything right so ANY advice relating to the X will be greatly appreciated. Also are there any reasonably priced hop ups or accessories that I should look into getting for my new truck? Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
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Any advice for nitro newbie??
- Thread starter BryanLs1
- Start date
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The truck is pretty solid out of the box, so hop ups would be an option in my opinion.
As far as the mesh, if you need to set it and can't do it by eye, loosen the engine screws, put a piece of paper (cut a narrow piece of loose leaf paper)
between the spur gear and the clutch bell.
Move the engine so that its tight to the spur, tighten the screws, and pull out the paper by turning the gear.
If the paper is ripped on either side, you have to do it again with the engine strait.
In other words, you might not have the engine meshed evenly.
The paper should come out like an acordian with no rips.
As far as the mesh, if you need to set it and can't do it by eye, loosen the engine screws, put a piece of paper (cut a narrow piece of loose leaf paper)
between the spur gear and the clutch bell.
Move the engine so that its tight to the spur, tighten the screws, and pull out the paper by turning the gear.
If the paper is ripped on either side, you have to do it again with the engine strait.
In other words, you might not have the engine meshed evenly.
The paper should come out like an acordian with no rips.
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Also remember that many of the same questions you will have, many other noobs have had already, and have already been asked and answered, in most cases several times. So the search feature will be a good friend to you here. If then you can't find what you are looking for, ask away, were here to help. Other than that welcome to RCNT and enjoy your new addiction! 
retarded pilot
Hardcore RCTalk User
i would sugjest a failsafe
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-Compact-Failsafe-Adapter-NEW_W0QQitemZ260004115655QQcmdZViewItem
and a rechargable receiver pack to replace the 4 AA disposable battery holder
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11130.17
otherwise just do a LOT of reading, theres a few methods of breaking in a nitro motor...see witch one sounds best to you. and follow the instructions to the letter
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-Compact-Failsafe-Adapter-NEW_W0QQitemZ260004115655QQcmdZViewItem
and a rechargable receiver pack to replace the 4 AA disposable battery holder
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=11130.17
otherwise just do a LOT of reading, theres a few methods of breaking in a nitro motor...see witch one sounds best to you. and follow the instructions to the letter
Page 24 of your manual will show you what screws to use. You do not want the gears to be tight or grind but you don’t want them to loose either. I like to hold the clutch bell with my finger (Little gear) and move the spur gear (Larger one) with my other finger. (I only have 2 fingers left) There should be a tiny bit of play between them. Like mentioned above, about the amount that a piece or two of notebook paper would be.
It’s frustrating at first and will take you several attempts to get it right but don’t settle for anything but perfect. Take your time.
It’s frustrating at first and will take you several attempts to get it right but don’t settle for anything but perfect. Take your time.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for all the advice guys I really need all of it I can get. Is there any way to tell if the mesh is set good as is? I mean should I do the paper test no matter what or is it ok if you can see a small space between the two? Sorry for all the questions I just like to try to do stuff right the first time.
Yeah, just take a small piece of paper and run it between the clutch bell and spur gears. It should acordian on you. Basically, if you don't see or feel any grinding as you spin the CB, you'll be OK. Just get a few spare spur gears to keep on hand, because at some point, you will grenade one (it happens).
bustedgears
Hardcore RCTalk User
Bryan,
I set my spur gears like this:
1. Barely loosen the motor mount screws
2. Mesh the spur gear to the clutch bell as tight as you can get it.
3. Move it away from the spur as little as you can.
4. Tighten the two screws closest the transmission just barely enough to keep the engine from moving.
5. Check your mesh (hold the cb, then try to move the spur)
The spur gear should have just a touch of "wiggle" in it.
6. Tighten the rest of the screws tightly
7. Double check the mesh the same way as step 5. If it's okay, then bash. If not, repeat the process.
The key to the perfect mesh is to have as little wiggle as possible in your meshing without any binding whatsoever.
Note: If there is binding a few things will happen. There will be binding in the front bearing of the engine, the bearing in the transmission, and will keep the engine from reaching full rpm range. If those bearings get wiped out, you have a much bigger problem on your hands than a stripped gear.
This method has worked for me for a very long time and I almost never strip spur gears.
ANOTHER NOTE: Use threadlocker on the engine mount bolts to make sure it doesn't move!
Absolutely! Mine on my X stripped out on me during break in.
I set my spur gears like this:
1. Barely loosen the motor mount screws
2. Mesh the spur gear to the clutch bell as tight as you can get it.
3. Move it away from the spur as little as you can.
4. Tighten the two screws closest the transmission just barely enough to keep the engine from moving.
5. Check your mesh (hold the cb, then try to move the spur)
The spur gear should have just a touch of "wiggle" in it.
6. Tighten the rest of the screws tightly
7. Double check the mesh the same way as step 5. If it's okay, then bash. If not, repeat the process.
The key to the perfect mesh is to have as little wiggle as possible in your meshing without any binding whatsoever.
Note: If there is binding a few things will happen. There will be binding in the front bearing of the engine, the bearing in the transmission, and will keep the engine from reaching full rpm range. If those bearings get wiped out, you have a much bigger problem on your hands than a stripped gear.
This method has worked for me for a very long time and I almost never strip spur gears.
ANOTHER NOTE: Use threadlocker on the engine mount bolts to make sure it doesn't move!
BryanLs1 said:
Absolutely! Mine on my X stripped out on me during break in.
