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Ansmann Racing .28 ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter alexisdabest1
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alexisdabest1

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Can somebody please share their views with the AR .28 eg,proformance and things. many thanks Alex !!
 
I browsed the U.K E-Bay site. From what i can see the engine block appears to be a Ofna/Hong Nor. i'd bet it's the same internally as the Ofna Force .28, or the HPI F4.6(also a Hong Nor engine)
Both are tipical RTR .28's, they drink a lot of gas, have good torque from low to mid range and decent top end. Now realize I am basing my info off of 11-12 pound Monster trucks. You have a 7-8 pound buggy there. It will be more than exciting for a new guy, should be a breeze to break in and tune. Expect about 5 minutes of runtime per tank though, thirsty engines! When you wear out this one, pick up a good race .21. It will be faster and use 30% less fuel.
I browsed through a lot of Ansmanns products. They make some good looking r/c's! They have a nice 4wd 1/10th truck, their 1/8th Truggy looks good too. Judging by the chassis layout the truggy would not compete with the Losi's and such. Still I think Ansmann is a good beginer to intermediate class r/c. I think you'll be very happy with it. Just don't expect those chrome wheels to stay pretty.
 
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YW, I was curious about the brand anyways. I had beer and time to kill....:)
 
Back at ya! Let us know how she runs! I always like to keep up with threads from start to finish.
 
engine runs!!!!

she runs good !!, started on the first pull during break-in. took it to a shop to be tuned and worked like a dream but the next day wouldent start at all. tuned it using some tips about the car on here and runs ok but still need 2 ajust the idle because keeps cutting out, plus sometimes when you rev 2 full throtle it makes a wierd sound like its trying to get there but can't. seems ok though theres always a good trail of smoke and goes a bit 2 fast because when u rev it spins the back everywhare !!!

hope u can get back 2 me from Alex
 
The weird sound its makin "probably" means it's a little too rich.. Ya need to adjust the hsn a bit (1/8 turn at a time) to the lean (clockwise) side.. Once ya have the HSN set where ya like it, turn it back counter clockwise a 1/16 of a turn, just to be safe.. Then tune the lsn.. I like the "pinch test" for tuning the lsn.. Here's how I do it: after it's warm and idling, pinch the fuel line that feeds the carb.. It should rev "slightly" and die within a second or two.. If it revs excessively the lsn needs to be leaned out a bit.. If it doesn't rev at all before dieing, the lsn needs to be richened a bit.. Just like with the hsn, do it in 1/8 turns until your happy, then turn it back 1/16 (counter clockwise) for engine safety.. (Disclaimer: I'm no nirto guru!! I'm currently asking about a motor issue myself, but I do read alot and have been fairly successful tuning the 2 nitro engines I've got, so that's my credentials.. If some of the more experienced guys say to do something different, you should follow their advice over mine!) Best of luck and have fun!!! :)
 
thanks

Thanks for the info, will follow ur advice can't wait 2 get the car out again !!! the weekend seems so far away !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! once again thanks from Alex !!:D;)
 
Good advice Mick,and I'm glad to hear the buggy runs good Alex.Listen to the way the engines sound on the vids Exetreme Rc Mods posted, that is how they are supposed to sound. I run a tad leaner on bottom, but all I do is race. I can't take the chance of flaming out with a safe tune. The pinch test gets you close, bu there is a tiny bit more there when you think you are ready to find it.
 
Thanks Scrogg!! Next time I get my cars out I'm definitely gonna try the "let the engine tell you" method, and see how it does! Just needs to warm up a little around here.. Callin for snow flurries of all things.. And I'm south of DAYTONA!!! LOL..
 
Yes it does! With the wind chill factor it's lile 16 degrees F. outside! Nothing worse than cold, damp AND windy! Oh well, only positive thing is it's keeping my new truggy chassis unscratched!!! I need to break in the damn chassis before the Psycho Nitro Blast in Atlanta, Ga. this March.
 
LoL.. I've got a Truggy that's still awaiting breakin as well!! Looks like Tuesday or Wed its supposed to get up near 60*.. That'll be my next chance.. Hope ya get yours dialed in in time!! :)
 
Just to let yall know, i had an ansmann virus for christmas with a .21 force engine, its tricky at start as a first nitro, just now finished perfectly tuning it.. and what a beast. absolute dream as an itermdiate - beginner, like scrogg said.
 
Do you need to shut off motor while you adjust needles or can you do it while engine is running?
 
you leave it running, when u first start it up runnit around to warm it up then start to ajust the needles. when you have ajusted the needles run it around to get the engine used to the settings, keep doing this until you are happy with the proformance. hope i have helped, if you need anything else PM me.
 
alexisdabest1 said:
thanks for getting the info for me, i dont intend to keep the chrome wheels!! manythanks Alex !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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They won't stay chrome for long :D

alexisdabest1 said:
you leave it running, when u first start it up runnit around to warm it up then start to ajust the needles. when you have ajusted the needles run it around to get the engine used to the settings, keep doing this until you are happy with the proformance. hope i have helped, if you need anything else PM me.
Click to expand...

I hold the car by the tail or put it on a box if I remembered one and treat it like any 2 stroke bike I owned.

Start it.
Tap in throttle occasionally for the first 10-20 seconds or so until the idle stabilises. (Basically if/when the revs fall to stall territory, give it a blip and wait)
Then starting increasing how far you blip. At first it will sound like it's in pain as soon as you give it 1/4 throttle, idle it again for a few seconds and repeat, increasing the peak throttle of each blip, release each time it strains.

You'll start to hear it warm up, like you warm up in the morning. Giving it too much too soon and it will sound rough and miss a lot.

Eventually when it will take full throttle and the revs get up, STOP, put the buggy on the ground. It's warmed up. Rev'ing it any more will just risk you damaging your tyres or driveshafts etc. Spinning them unloaded to max RPM can't be good for them. I popped a tyre off doing this.... it was starting to go anyway. Also the balance of your wheels and tyres has to be spot on of the buggy will start to pull itself to pieces. You do NOT want to be hit in the face by anything that breaks and comes off!

To the original post, I find the Vapor .28 probably over powered at low speed and is begging for a 2 speed box at top end. I also found the tail was very loose under power at first, but it quickly moved the other way and the front was too loose off road. I expect the grease they put in the diffs became lighter as it broke in. I put 10,000wt diff oil in the centre diff :D Cause I like an oversteery car, I hate understeer with a passion. With this setup you need good throttle control and plenty of Expo and you can drift wide circles on dry tarmac with the spike wheels.... or do donuts on a dime until the gyroscopic effects flip the buggy over. :D

The inital acceleration in a straight line is frighening. I took ages lining up on one of the first big jumps I did and was only about 4 foot from the ramp when I was happy enough to give it full whack. The thing must have hit 20 mph before the top of the BMW table top jump and instead of landing on the other side it cleared a good 5 foot over the jump and landed a good 6 foot beyond it.

(Assides: I had a 50cc 2 stroke bike that the rings where going in, so i leaked oil into the cylinder when it was cold. Best way to get rip of the blue smoke was to give it WOT on the stand and let it burn it off and warm up! Very nasty I was to that engine, but it was very nasty to me and deserved no respect!
 
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