dragit
RC Newbie
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- 6
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- RC Driving Style
8 weeks ago I snagged a basicly new 1/16 Merv w/11.1v lipos +charger from a buddy and fell in love instantly. It took me all of two weeks to break everything on that car once or twice (bulkheads like crazy!).
One visit to the LHS I decided a needed something bigger and more durable. I didn't want to dish out the cash for the brushless E Revo so I went the nitro route to pinch pennys.
This thing is pretty stout! But like anything, it will break lol. Broke it in and played with the tune got it running good... and found it really don't hold a tune well (that and swings in weather around here). I bought a duratrax heat deal and set the emissity (sp?) Setting to 77. Seems this thing likes to run warm or the settings on the duratrax are wrong.
Towards the end of the first gallon of nitro I hit a curb at my hotel and broke both left front a arms and push rod... and the box with the reciver was smashed up. I've also had two clutchs in this point and a experience with the slipper clutch.
Today I put on two new aluminum pushrods. The 102mm pushrods apparently are shorter than stock? I ended up having the push rods connect to the furthest in hole on the front a arms and moved the rear push rods to the middle hole. It gave the truck a desert truck stance... I installed the stiffer springs the kit came with but left the stock p2 rockers on. Without driving it, I thinks its going to handke much better with less body roll and take big lands better. I'm sure I will have the address the stance later to make it handle better under power.
Pulled the engine and sealed everything. Seems there is a 'lot' of slop at tdc. Is this normal? Besides that, everything looked great. Glo plug looks pretty good after a gallon of 20%, but I put a new one in anyways.
While I was hear I pulled that junk clutch and installed a kompsite buku setup with the stock bell (after a good sanding and cleaning). Two brass shims seemed like the perfect spacing for the flywheel from the engine, but it was damn close so I put in three. Though I bought ten new ones, the stock clutch bearings looked and spun great so I reused them. I didn't use any spacers up front and everything worked beautifully.
Installed the engine after sealing everything and set the mesh... then hooked up up the throttle stuff to find... the carb should be spun a smidge more clockwise. It was binding up in the carb slide and the servo couldn't get the carb to WOT and it would return to like 1/4... not idle. At this point I would have to pull the engine.. pull the siliconed carb. Clean and reseal it (hope my positioning is better) and reassemble.
Not wanting to do that... I managed to get the carb returning to idle smoothly and opening 98% of the way. Took a lil fanaglin, and loosening the set screw to that throttle arm on the carb slide, and givin it a small rotation. We'll see how this works before I decide to pull it apart to fix the carb position.
Also replaced the compartment with all the Rx stuff that I smashed.
I haven't run it yet because I did all of that today. I wanted to give the rtv time to set up. Tomorrow we'll see if the needles are anywhere close to right... if I got the clutch right (has to break in anyways)... and how it handles.
What do you guys think about setting the slipper pretty tight ( but still in effect to save drivetrain in extreme cases) and letting the buku clutch do all the work? I've heard of people doing it but there has got to be some downfalls to doin that.
Thanks for any help guys.
One visit to the LHS I decided a needed something bigger and more durable. I didn't want to dish out the cash for the brushless E Revo so I went the nitro route to pinch pennys.
This thing is pretty stout! But like anything, it will break lol. Broke it in and played with the tune got it running good... and found it really don't hold a tune well (that and swings in weather around here). I bought a duratrax heat deal and set the emissity (sp?) Setting to 77. Seems this thing likes to run warm or the settings on the duratrax are wrong.
Towards the end of the first gallon of nitro I hit a curb at my hotel and broke both left front a arms and push rod... and the box with the reciver was smashed up. I've also had two clutchs in this point and a experience with the slipper clutch.
Today I put on two new aluminum pushrods. The 102mm pushrods apparently are shorter than stock? I ended up having the push rods connect to the furthest in hole on the front a arms and moved the rear push rods to the middle hole. It gave the truck a desert truck stance... I installed the stiffer springs the kit came with but left the stock p2 rockers on. Without driving it, I thinks its going to handke much better with less body roll and take big lands better. I'm sure I will have the address the stance later to make it handle better under power.
Pulled the engine and sealed everything. Seems there is a 'lot' of slop at tdc. Is this normal? Besides that, everything looked great. Glo plug looks pretty good after a gallon of 20%, but I put a new one in anyways.
While I was hear I pulled that junk clutch and installed a kompsite buku setup with the stock bell (after a good sanding and cleaning). Two brass shims seemed like the perfect spacing for the flywheel from the engine, but it was damn close so I put in three. Though I bought ten new ones, the stock clutch bearings looked and spun great so I reused them. I didn't use any spacers up front and everything worked beautifully.
Installed the engine after sealing everything and set the mesh... then hooked up up the throttle stuff to find... the carb should be spun a smidge more clockwise. It was binding up in the carb slide and the servo couldn't get the carb to WOT and it would return to like 1/4... not idle. At this point I would have to pull the engine.. pull the siliconed carb. Clean and reseal it (hope my positioning is better) and reassemble.
Not wanting to do that... I managed to get the carb returning to idle smoothly and opening 98% of the way. Took a lil fanaglin, and loosening the set screw to that throttle arm on the carb slide, and givin it a small rotation. We'll see how this works before I decide to pull it apart to fix the carb position.
Also replaced the compartment with all the Rx stuff that I smashed.
I haven't run it yet because I did all of that today. I wanted to give the rtv time to set up. Tomorrow we'll see if the needles are anywhere close to right... if I got the clutch right (has to break in anyways)... and how it handles.
What do you guys think about setting the slipper pretty tight ( but still in effect to save drivetrain in extreme cases) and letting the buku clutch do all the work? I've heard of people doing it but there has got to be some downfalls to doin that.
Thanks for any help guys.
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