1/24 printed pan cars

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2wdMod

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I had a ton of fun developing the 1/24 pan car .. I was going to scale it up to 1/18 , and still plan to , but for now I want a bit more of a challenge so I decided to go the other way and take the micro pan car concept smaller to 1/36 scale.. I am waiting on the ball diff components to arrive.. Will be using a 6x12x4.5 thrust bearing assembly as the ball diff.. For motor I am using the 030 size motor from the SCX 24 , for gearing I am running .5 module printed gears geared 6/32. Battery is a 1s 300 mah li-po.. The front end is similar to the design I used in the 1/24 car with coil springs and king pin suspension with static caster set at 3* and camber set to -.5* per side. for now toe link is set to neutral at 0*. For springs in the front end I am using NEXX racing damper plate springs for thier Mini-z kit.. The car is designed to use a Mini-z bearing set , so no odd bearing sizes in this one.. I have the molds made for the tires for this guy , it uses 8mm wide R tires on 16.25 mm diameter wheels and 6mm wide fronts I am going to start by casting the R tires in some 15A and F tires in some 22.5A and see how that balances out the car.. For receiver I plan on using the standard $9 flysky receiver taken out of the case and everything hardwired to save space.. Just seeing how small this guy is compared to a 1/24 car is awesome.. Its going to be great to drive!!

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Marky's Lab

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I think there is definitely a "market" for a standardized race class using a few printed "stock" parts (chassis, etc) and a motor from an scx24.

Imagine having cheap fair racing with no parts availability issues and a rule that any of the allowed modifications had to be open source on a central website before the race so others could print them (but wouldnt have time to test).

The stock parts (motor, servo, esc) you had to buy would even mean money for local shops and tracks.

I'd be super keen for that.
 

Maximum_Quake_Pro.com

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take my money!!

i need one or 4 replica 80s 90s nascars
 

2wdMod

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take my money!!

i need one or 4 replica 80s 90s nascars
files for both the 1/24 pan and 1/24 top fuel are posted to my Cults page already , so anybody with a printer can have a go at it. I plan on doing the same for this little guy as soon as I get all the kinks worked out.. Just search CSRC on cults and it will pull up all my designs..
 

2wdMod

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I have a roller ready for electronics.. I am still waiting on my ball diff parts to arrive so I have a solid spool in its place for the time being .. I can't finish designing the diff until I have the actual parts in hand for final measurements..Looks like I will have the car built and driving before I have the diff parts in hand , so Its time to load electronics as the body mounting system is designed into the body/chassis..It clips into place similar to a mini -z It looks dinky next to my 1/24 car..
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Marky's Lab

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sweet. I am planning on getting a printer soon & printing some jumps and barriers for turbo racing cars. I think I will use your barrier design :)
 

2wdMod

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sweet. I am planning on getting a printer soon & printing some jumps and barriers for turbo racing cars. I think I will use your barrier design :)
I have been looking at the turbo cars.. Going to have to get one for sure.
 

2wdMod

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The low down on the 1/36 pan !! It drives great and I still dont have a diff in it yet!!But the rest of the car is all done down to the body mounts..
 

2wdMod

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Would the antenna still work well enough internally? at that scale it looks like a light pole 😉
Its really more an issue with room under the shell , I probably should be using a micro receiver, which has a shorty antenna, but those are $35 just for the receiver when the one I used is $8 ..
 

JerBear

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Hey all My name is Chad.. I'm into 3d printed Mini and micro scale cars .. One of my recent projects was to design a performance 3d printed 1/24 pan car.. Kind off a "half-1/12 " type of project.. So I went into it with 25 yrs on road pan car racing experience and went with design attributes from my favorite cars over the years.. In testing I went with a torsion link design in the rear , and a static camber/caster direct coil spring style suspension similar to the suspension found on a mid 1980's associated rc12i .. Not very tunable, but VERY reliable and predictable.. The cars weigh in at around 145 grams ready to run... For power system I have been running 1410 sized sensorless brushless systems on 2s.. Either 2500 or 3500kv motors depending on track size layout.. The cars are designed with choice of gear diff or ball diff build.. The cars are 1/24 . Running a 104mm wheelbase , and a 79mm track width .. The goal was to print as much of the car as possible while still maintaining the highest performance I could with a printed car.. The result has been a TON of fun testing and racing with friends.. View attachment 142680 View attachment 142683
Here is a link to some action running laps..
Simple is better. I think this is awesome. We raced Mini Zs back in the 00's. They have too many small parts shocks and stuff. I like how you incorporated electronics that are available commercially not some proprietary electronics like the Mini Z.
 

2wdMod

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Simple is better. I think this is awesome. We raced Mini Zs back in the 00's. They have too many small parts shocks and stuff. I like how you incorporated electronics that are available commercially not some proprietary electronics like the Mini Z.
My oldest and I also raced them in the mid 2000's.. same here. Nothing like spending more on a steering gear set than it costs for 2 complete servos.. Or $12 for a plain old mabuchi 130 motor that you can get for a couple bucks a piece elsewhere , but arent legal to run because it didnt come in a kyosho labeled package, but are literally the same exact motor.. I also dont miss dealing with Nimh batteries.. Its great , I dont have to swap batteries in my cars.
 

2wdMod

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First laps with the 1/24 pan car.. Still a spooled rear end , no differential so I have to blip the throttle the break the rear end free it get it to rotate through the hairpins, but as you can see , the guy moves out quite nice on 1s !! Run times on the 300 mah battery are well over 30 minutes pushing 40..
 

2wdMod

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Alright guys , I have been quiet because I have been testing my 1/36 ball differential rear axle design for the 1/36 pan car.. It uses 8- 2mm balls in a 32 t spur gear .. The diff uses a pair of printed TPU pads to provide some spring rate for adjustment. At the core of the axle is a M3 x 60 cap screw cut down to 55mm in total length, The differential itself was made from using a F6-12M sized thrust bearing as the donor and removing the 2mm balls from the cage and putting them in the spur gear. The TPU pressure pads are CA glued to the flat side of the thrust washers which we will now call diff rings. When assembling the axle the L side wheel gets press/glued onto the cap head side of the axle bolt, then the Lside axle spacer gets slid on using a drop of CA to secure it to the wheel , the axle is then slipped through the motor pod bearings and the inner diff hub is threaded on the axle shaft using it to adjust the axle tightness against the bearings. When you are happy with its position you then assemble the rest of the diff with no balls in the assembly, so you dont flat spot them, just bolting things together so things are held square to each other with a good amount of pressure on the assembly.. this aligns the assembly on the shaft, so you then put a drop of CA glue in each of the holes in diff hub to secure it to the shaft while its being held under load.. After the glue sets take things apart and Re-assemble the ball diff as you normally would using some good diff grease, and adjust to the desired tension.. Just using the Chrome steel balls that come in the thrust bearing assembly the diff is nice and smooth, I have some 2mm carbides on order , that should make it just ridiculous with the 8 ball design.. Running the grooved rings the contact patch on the balls is increased so you actually have to run less tension on the assembly.. I tried flipping the rings and running on the flat side, it requires more tension and the diff isnt as smooth , so I went back to running the grooved side.
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