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Sorry, I guess my cross-post didn't send you a notification -I tried to make my reply here. I should've said something in this thread. I've been practicing with Phoenix Sim, big help for sure.

Yeah, that's the only way I can think of to get that style of clutch onto a threaded-shaft engine. I'm not quite far enough along to post about the planes yet, by "build" I mean "buy all the parts" - I'm still learning with a buddy-box at my local field, but I've got an Avistar Elite and an OS...

You'll want a Kyosho pilot shaft NT024. This will allow you to use 2 shoes of the 3 piece clutch with the stock flywheel, much like a stock FW-06. 2 is plenty since those are 1/8th clutches. I too grew sick of the half-moon clutches and upgraded the whole fleet to "shoe" style clutches. I find...

Those together are HSP #02030

If you replace the radio tray with the pivot ball version, definitely, so the servo sits next to the engine instead of slightly behind it, like you did on your force car. Here's how I did mine on one of my pivot builds- I mounted the carb linkage under the servo arm so the brake rod could pass...

I never had as much issue with play with my gears as you report to have in yours, but I can't think of any reason why that would happen. We get them from the same place... Mine tend to strip because the engine shifted in its mounts after a hard tumble and I'm dumb enough to send it again instead...

I bought the metal gears for mine and never installed them because of the weight, I just keep a couple spares of the plastic gears on hand, they've been pretty reliable for me once I ironed out all the quirks, but they do occasionally strip under rough conditions. Part of the reason is that it...

Solid idea! First I want to see if I can hit 60 with my SH-12 build, it's taken a bit more work than I expected. Side note about the versatility of the HSP vehicles, it still surprises me that these are built on basically the same platform, just a different chassis plate and suspension arms:

It is! Found it on Ali as "HSP Wheelie bar", Jz9193 carries it. Clips right onto the rear bumper.

Is that the rear-exhaust SH.18 you're talking about? "GS18"? I'm thinking of putting mine in the HSP Short-Course truck. Like I've mentioned before, My goal is to have one of each HSP variant each with a different souped-up engine. Got the truck put back together, it runs great with the ceramic...

I warmed it with a heat gun, placed the bearing on the crankshaft and used that to line it up and insert it, and it popped in as easily as a wheel bearing. I was a little surprised, it didn't take any force at all to seat it, the SH.12 I'd done a few days ago had more of a "pop," and I preheated...

Thanks! I'm planning to have it back together and running tomorrow. I left both seals on the ceramic rear bearing, and kept the stock front bearing as it felt fine. They were the pressed-in metal type, so I doubt I could've removed them anyway. It slipped in very easily. My elaborate shutdown...

I agree, most likely leftover fuel. I stop the engine before it's empty, and use a big syringe to drain the tank through the fuel line. (disconnecting it at the carb) Then, while it's still hot from being run, I start it until it doesn't crank itself over anymore, (on the first few tries it'll...

Here's your answer - front seal only on the front bearing, no seals on the rear bearing. To my shame, I discovered that I had let the crank rust to a nice dark, crusty patina, and had been running the engine that way. It was just about a year since I ran it, and probably didn't clean it out as...

I have a ceramic set from Boca Bearings, the back is 12x5x21, slightly larger than the front. I might only change the rear one, the front should be fine and is still practically new... They recommend: "Whenever using a ceramic hybrid bearing in an RC Engine, we suggest leaving both seals on for...

Thanks! In the interest of getting this one out on the field, I skipped my usual round of upgrades, basically just threw the motor in the roller. Still have to do the diff cases, wheel bearings, steering rack, etc. Upgrading to aluminum will probably help with the servo saver issue. I'm only...

I managed to record a full minute today, with the body! I think I'll christen it the "HSP-Maxx", just don't tell Traxxas ;) I'm starting to really love these chunky chevron tires, they make it look and drive like a monster truck. Excuse the garbage, that's city parks for you... It plows...

Sharp eye! I decided to post it in the daily thread instead of the "introduce yourself" forum that my original build thread was in. It's here. Literally took me a year from when I last mentioned it, but I got the 11k carb running & on video, and it runs beautifully, though you know this for...

They had to copy it from someone!

I think it's feasible, it might work best with a "thinner" flywheel front-to back since the Traxxas one is only 7mm or so. The Traxxas pilot shaft is shorter than the SG Shaft overall, so you might run into the opposite problem as before with the mounts, where the clutch bell be would too far...