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That's what I did. Reverse polarity and that's how I fried my trx xl5 esc and that's how my uncle fried his XR10 Pro. Also if you keep one battery wire short and the other one long, you have to keep the battery in 1 position. I am going to try a different battery strap on my buggy since I don't...

Something else I should note is if you are getting into racing. The battery bullets and motor wires have to be soldered. Its very different from RTR stuff. Having a good soldering job or having a friend that does soldering would be nice to the build. I had my uncle solder my motor and battery...

I run a AE 25t aluminum servo arm/horn on my buggy. Ran TLR 22 25t aluminum servo arm/horn on my bashers. Never burned or went through servos. Maybe because of luck or I am a great driver? I have no idea. Tekin is a good brand. Most of the people at my local track runs hobbywing so I went with...

Another thing is tires and wheels. Most of these kits don't come with wheels. Here are wheels for the T6.2 I don't have experience with dirt tires but dirt tires look like this These are short course tires but the tread can apply for stadium truck.

Nice. I would go for the associated. For electronics I would get a Hobbywing XR10 justock 13.5 combo. For batteries I would look at Maclan, SMC, and Trinity shorty packs. Some chassis can do low profile packs which are a little less heavier and shorter in height. CHNL is also a battery brand...

Here is another option Schumacher Storm ST https://www.racing-cars.com/rc-models-2/cars/cars-scale=1-10th/storm-st-kit-k186?returnurl=%2frc-models-2%2fcars%2fcars-scale%3d1-10th%2f Schumacher is based in the UK and this car is more for carpet racing (since they do alot of carpet racing in...

I don't have much experience with stadium trucks my self. I think that most of the stadium trucks kits are all 2wd. Most of the kits are outdated too since stadium truck isn't a popular class like 2wd buggy. TLR, Team Associated, and Xray makes stadium trucks. Xray models get updated every year...