Got a Hobbywing max10 sct/3200kv 3660 in my stampede 4x4

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Nice, very nice! I have this exact motor / esc combo (actually not exact as mines 3200kv) in my 1/10 Frankenstein buggy thats based on a helion dominus 10tr (of all things lol) running 17/50 pinion/spur and 11/34 at the rear diff. Only through the rear wheels and using 1/8 buggy badland copies all round with some hex converters.
Its a bloody animal and its taken LOTS of trial and error to get it to stand up to the motors power.

Its fun pushing stuff beyond what they can take isnt it lol
Mines also the 3200kv. After the day from the videos I posted, and broke the chassis in half, it's been sitting on my bench. I was looking at it again last night making sure nothing else was damaged that I don't have and it seems there's some binding somewhere in the center line. Seems to be from the center to the rear, I have a center diff, front seems to spin somewhat ok. Will find out when the new chassis shows up and I tear it apart.
 
Mines also the 3200kv. After the day from the videos I posted, and broke the chassis in half, it's been sitting on my bench. I was looking at it again last night making sure nothing else was damaged that I don't have and it seems there's some binding somewhere in the center line. Seems to be from the center to the rear, I have a center diff, front seems to spin somewhat ok. Will find out when the new chassis shows up and I tear it apart.
Wow very similar situation, hence why I'm only running it in rwd. I kept having centre driveline issues from the chassis flex and destroying the centre diff.
I tried twin skin (2 chassis plates), strategic under plates, I have custom front and rear chassis braces from towers to chassis in on both sides of rear tower and a custom one for front tower. Extra support for the centre top plate to stop it from being able to give while flexing also.

As its not my be all and end all car i just removed the centre propshaft and front diff, filled the rear diff with blutack (diffs arnt sealed enough for silicon) and called it a day. Its not that bad at all on dirt or grass and you dont miss 4wd much at all. On tarmac though with the badland copies its basically unusable lol.
About to fit a gyro to it which will help out a lot and I don't drive on smooth surface, only for testing purposes so itll do me nicely as it is. Its one of those cars thats meant to be a bit of a joke more than anything but it actually outshines itself constantly. Its taken soooo much abuse lol
 
How did you snap the shaft on your motor?
I snapped two shafts on the 3652 hobbywing ezrun motors, thats why i went up to the 3660 with a 5mm shaft.
I found a rotor for the 3652 but it was £20 and delivery on top. wasn't worth it to me when its not a great deal more for the 3660
 
With mine, I believe the fact that I'm running a 7200mah 3S SMC 3S2P pack in it is why it broke... they are big and heavy. I was really airing it out and it was about 32F outside at the time. Before that, earlier in the day at the grass bmx place, I was also airing it out, but it was 43F. Between the time I bashed there and made it back to my town to run at my local skate park, the temps dropped.

I may have to just buy some smaller 5200/5400 3S1P packs to run in these smaller trucks. The 2 packs I have I built out of old 2S2P packs just to try out, then I modified the battery hold down/straps to fit the stupid things. lol! I run the same packs in my converted e-jato as well... which also sees a lot of air.
 
I was lucky with the first snapped shaft as hobbywing replaced the motor after i sent it to them for examination which led me to believe there was maybe an issue with the integrity of the shaft perhaps.

The second shaft was pretty much my fault as i was winding the power on at landing trying to recover the car from a double backflip about to go horribly wrong lol.
Even with a slipper (set pretty tight though) and a plastic spur it snapped the motor shaft clean off
 
Yeah i run 3s too but i only use 5000mah packs to keep the weight down a bit. Runtime isnt great with this setup but I'm using turnigy heavy duties so price isnt too bad. Just buy an extra one when buying more lol
 
How did you snap the shaft on your motor?
I snapped two shafts on the 3652 hobbywing ezrun motors, thats why i went up to the 3660 with a 5mm shaft.
I found a rotor for the 3652 but it was £20 and delivery on top. wasn't worth it to me when its not a great deal more for the 3660
The one I snapped was a castle 3800kv which had a 1/8" shaft, they mill down the 5mm shaft to 1/8". It snapped right where it increases.
2019-0309-Stampede-BrokenCastle3800kvMotorShaft.jpg


I'm not real sure why it snapped.

@1:18 in this video is the impact, then I back up and it's broke:

Wasn't that hard of an impact... I've hit a lot of stuff harder than that!

I even have the traxxas heavy duty motor plate and king heads alloy motor mount/spur holder thing.

Can see it a bit better here, guess it wasn't right where it was milled, but close:
2019-0313-Castle3800kv-vs-HW3200kv-side.jpg


I also recently bought a hobbystar 3200kv. Wasn't paying much attention and ended up with the 1/8" shaft on it too. It's milled like the castle was. I got it for my converted e-jato as it was also running a castle 3800kv. Which was fine on 2S, but it's really screaming on 3S. Figured I'd keep the 3800kv as a backup. Except now I have 2 castle sct sv3 esc's as backup and the good 3800kv and the broke 3800kv... not sure I'll bother replacing the rotor. Unless I snag one cheap off ebay.
 
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Thats crazy. Tiny dink into the rail and toast.
Very odd. I could only guess that a previous more serious impact had already cracked it perhaps
 
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