T-Maxx 3.3 Spur Gear (Stripping Problem)

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newfienew

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I have recently picked up a TMaxx 3.3. It ran great gor about 10 - 12 tanks of fuel. I too it out to an old baseball diamond and leaving the infield to the outfield it took a spill and stripped the supr gear. I replaed it and it slipped a little as I'm new to the t-maxx and had to tighten the lock not a little. I then stripped the spur gear. So I replaced it again and this time made sure not to tighten it too much. the little pads would slip a little if I pushed them in the opposite direction of the spur gear. Again it stripped. Would it be best if I used the steel spur gear or am I missing something.

Any and all instructions and advice on properly replacing a spur gear would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading
Chris
 
well.....

make sure to get a strip of copy paper and put it in between to measure mesh. to do this get a strip of regular copy paper put it in between the spur and the bell clutch if it slides through its to loose if it rips to tight so get it to where u can pull it through only leaving tooth marks! if uv done that change over to a metal one if stripped alot of plastic spurs goin in big deep grass!
 
Thanks for the response

I'll check that with a new spur gear. I may have had it too tight. The first time I did take a spill and it stripped when I hit the motor. I hand no idea how to set it up the new one. How tight should I have the lock nut holding the slipper clutch?

Thanks
Chris
 
Check the motor mount....

The one on my son's had two of the bolts get loose and it was allowing just a little play which cause the gears to seperate just enough to strip the spur after a good rollover crash. It took me two stripped spurs to notice the barely loose mounting screws.
 
I'll check that with a new spur gear. I may have had it too tight. The first time I did take a spill and it stripped when I hit the motor. I hand no idea how to set it up the new one. How tight should I have the lock nut holding the slipper clutch?

Thanks
Chris

A good gauge for the slipper clutch, is to put your foot on the roll-bar/cage to hold the truck in place, this keeps the wheels from spinning and give it some gas. You should see the spur gear turning and the slipper pads should be spinning against the the metal plate. When you first start to give it the throttle, the truck should start to pull, then the slipper will do it's job. If you don't feel it pulling and the slipper is just spinning, it might be too loose.
 
Much Appreciated

All of your advide is greatly appreciated. I know I must have had a problem with the mounting screws on the engine. I didn't want to tighten them too tight as I did not have a very good hex set and was afraid of stripping them. I went to my hobby shop today and bought a really good rounded set of hex screwdrivers. ($24.00 set)

Is is normal for the smaller gear on the engine to have about 1/8to to 1/16th of an inch play from front to back.

Thanks Again
Chris
 
If you are having this problem now you may want to look in to a simple roll bar. This will prevent landing on the motor which keeps you from striping spurs and breaking motor mounts. Usually the rear 2 bolts strip from the mount on a hard landing. I wasted like 5 stock and 4 billet mounts before I bought this http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=jgddmmyehmldfdyqpddoisvdtiugeqje&part_id=3273. I have not had a single spur gear or motor mount problem since.
The tmaxx 3.3 was also my first nitro, it has evolved in to a beast as it sits. Currently shelfed with a broke main shaft in the tranny. LOL
 
I have recently picked up a TMaxx 3.3. It ran great gor about 10 - 12 tanks of fuel. I too it out to an old baseball diamond and leaving the infield to the outfield it took a spill and stripped the supr gear. I replaed it and it slipped a little as I'm new to the t-maxx and had to tighten the lock not a little. I then stripped the spur gear. So I replaced it again and this time made sure not to tighten it too much. the little pads would slip a little if I pushed them in the opposite direction of the spur gear. Again it stripped. Would it be best if I used the steel spur gear or am I missing something.

Any and all instructions and advice on properly replacing a spur gear would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading
Chris

got the steel spur gear now I'm stripping clutch teeth
 
Look man I dont want to be pushy, but your problem is gear mesh not the material of parts. Either #1 the bolts arent tight enough or are moving, #2 you have stripped the rear bolts on the motor mount, or #3 your getting chassis flex, or #4 your landing upsidedown on the motor and the impact is moving the CB away from the spur gear.

Most of these problem can be solved by a roll bar as I suggested earlier. I havent had to change a spur gear in at least 6-7 months and I was eating them like lunch before.

When you use a steel spur you are just creating a weak spot and that is going to be the CB or the transmission. If you do it right you dont need a steel spur...
 
got the steel spur gear now I'm stripping clutch teeth

The clutch bell has to be hardened or else the metal spur will eat the CB. The Maxx does not have a hardened steel CB. The traxxas mills are soft metal.
 
All is Well

Once I used threadlocker on the mount screws all was ok. I put paper in between the gears and pulled it out after everything was setup. I've ran 4 tanks of fuel through it and response is great. The two rear engine mount screws are stripped but the two front ones are ok and I have threadlocker on them as well. In addition I ordered a new aluminum motor mount and a simple roll cage for the motor so it doesn't happen again. Thanks everyone for your advise and help. It's all a learning experience. Much Appreciated

Newfienew

There are so many types of roll cages what one do you guys recommend that will protect the motor the best.

Newfienew
 
I ran my Maxx with the one from NewEra and liked it.
0129080742.jpg

0129080741.jpg
 
Look man I dont want to be pushy, but your problem is gear mesh not the material of parts. Either #1 the bolts arent tight enough or are moving, #2 you have stripped the rear bolts on the motor mount, or #3 your getting chassis flex, or #4 your landing upsidedown on the motor and the impact is moving the CB away from the spur gear.

Most of these problem can be solved by a roll bar as I suggested earlier. I havent had to change a spur gear in at least 6-7 months and I was eating them like lunch before.

When you use a steel spur you are just creating a weak spot and that is going to be the CB or the transmission. If you do it right you dont need a steel spur...

Or #5 you don't have the mesh between the spur gear and the clutch bell right, if it's to tight or to loose you will have problems...
 
Or #5 you don't have the mesh between the spur gear and the clutch bell right, if it's to tight or to loose you will have problems...

:preachin:
You are 100% correct

And I knew the back mounts were stripped. Been there and done that and wasted too much money on parts that werent needed. I actually broke an integy metal spur before I got the cage.

I also went for the New Era cage that I linked above, that is your best bet as far as protection, compared to cost and durability
 
Much appreciated

Thanks to all that replied to this thread. I now have a roll cage installed and all is well. I have installed the aluminum Traxxas motor mount with 4 good mount screws instead of two. As indicated I had stripped the two back ones on my old motor mount. Loctite is the gear in this situation. Set it right from the bottom with the paper in between the spur gears and there will be no issue. Thanks again to all that helped me learn the right way of doing this. Hats off toall in this forum. Leaning is great!!!!!!!!

Newfienew
Just looking to learn
 
Glad it's all worked out for you, that's why were all here to help each other out and have a good time, and learn a thing or two, enjoy your Maxx and keep on bashing...
 
metal gears

:p:do you guys know a part number for the metsl gears
 
i didn't read all the posts so if someone has already posted this sorry, but in my opinion you should always use a plastic spur, and metal tranny gears if possible. the plastic spur will be easier to replace if anything did get binded up or something than taking the whole tranny apart. i'm in the process now of replacing a bad diff gearand that sucks, i had to take it apart to take the gear out to see what was bad then put everything back together so no parts got lost when the new gear comes in i'll have to take it apart again and put it back together, keep the plastic gear, and get your mesh rite, you shouldn't have a problem. if you are wrecking or landing upside down from time to time, do as suggesteed and get a roll bar.
 
I raised my body mounts up and it keeps the engine off the ground now. i don't care much for working around the cages, I like them but its just one more thing to take off before you can start the real repairs. Not sure if this is the right thing to do, but my Picco hasn't touched the ground since i did this.
 
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