Slash 4x4 Damage Done

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daSNAK3

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Got my kids some trucks for Xmas, step son already caused some carnage to his Slash 4x4..

I haven’t had time to really dig into it but looks like so far the parts that I can clearly see that were broken were the following..

-Shock Shaft bent
-Bottom of the shock is missing
-Front camber link snapped
-Driveshaft snapped

This will be my first time buying a bunch of stuff for upgrading so just looking for a little help/guidance for these parts and/or anything else I should upgrade while I’m at it to help beef this thing up a little bit for him.

I was browsing the Traxxas site and so far I was looking at the following for replacements/upgrades for the stuff that broke..

- Part #: 5862 - Big Bore shocks (hard-anodized & PTFE-coated T6 aluminum) (assembled with TiN shafts and springs) (front & rear) (4).

- Part #: 3643X - Camber links, front (TUBES blue-anodized, 7075-T6 aluminum, stronger than titanium) (83mm) (2)/ rod ends (4)/ aluminum wrench (1) (#2579 3x15 BCS (4) required for installation)

- Part #: 6851R - Driveshafts, front, steel-spline constant-velocity (complete assembly) (2)


And I was looking at picking up an aluminum shock tower as well.. Part #: 6839X


Will these suffice? Or is there better parts available out there that are not on the Traxxas website?.. any help is much appreciated. Thank you.

EDIT: Found MIP18150 X-Duty Front CVD Drive Kit.. are these good?.. I seen a few reviews raving about them.

Definitely open to other suggestions on what to upgrade now while I’m at it, even if it’s not currently broken. I was thinking about getting some bigger monster truck style wheels/tires for him, just because of his driving style.. has anyone here went the more monster truck style with the Slash?.. just trying to do what I can to help him not demolish this thing too badly and/or as fast. 😂

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Carnage!! Always love it..
 
The Traxxas stuff is nice, but overpriced in my opinion.

As far as 7075 aluminum being stronger than titanium... I challenge that statement with my 25+ years experience machining both materials. Plus my Jato came with Traxxas brand aluminum links. They snapped like toothpicks. You can't beat Lunsford titanium links, but they are pricey. Here are some on ebay, but shop around.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1431990521...NCCKxqlTp2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

As far as MIP anything, yes it is really good stuff. Those CVD's will be a big improvement.

Aluminum shock towers are ok, but if yours isn't broke, I'm not sure I'd go that route. On my Jato, the heavy aluminum shock tower caused other damage, requiring a massive teardown to replace my transmission housing. Had that been plastic, the light crash the car had would not have broke the trans housing.

If you put bigger tires on it, you will need to lower your pinion tooth count to compensate, otherwise you are going to burn up your motor. The Slash body won't allow much bigger tires anyway would it? I'd stay with stock tire diameter, or close to it. You can drop a tooth or two on the pinion to pick up a little speed, but you will need to monitor motor temps with an infrared temp gun. Keep motor temps below 160°F.

But from the looks of things... she's too fast already 😜
 
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Bad landing on one corner of RC, or arm caught something to cause the damage?
I'm guessing, since the arm is still intact, that it was a bad/weird landing.
 
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The Traxxas stuff is nice, but overpriced in my opinion.

As far as 7075 aluminum being stronger than titanium... I challenge that statement with my 25+ years experience machining both materials. Plus my Jato csme with Traxxas brand links. They snapped like toothpicks. You can't beat Lunsford titanium links, but they are pricey. Here are some on ebay, but shop around.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1431990521...NCCKxqlTp2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

As far as MIP anything, yes it is really good stuff. Those CVD's will be a big improvement.

Aluminum shock towers are ok, but if yours isn't broke, I'm not sure I'd go that route. On my Jato, the heavy aluminum shock tower caused other damage, requiring a massive teardown to replace my transmission housing. Had that been plastic, the light crash the car had would not have broke the trans housing.

If you put bigger tires on it, you will need to lower your pinion tooth count to compensate, otherwise you are going to burn up your motor. The Slash body won't allow much bigger tires anyway would it? I'd stay with stock tire diameter, or close to it. You can drop a tooth or two on the pinion to pick up a little speed, but you will need to monitor motor temps with an infrared temp gun. Keep motor temps below 160°F.

But from the looks of things... she's too fast already 😜
I don't know when Lunsford Racing started out, but they were the first name that popped up in my head anytime I was wanting titanium turnbuckles. Sad to see the company go, but happy for the Lunfords being able to retire.
 
- Part #: 5862 - Big Bore shocks (hard-anodized & PTFE-coated T6 aluminum) (assembled with TiN shafts and springs) (front & rear) (4).
Good upgrade imo. Stock traxxas shocks kinda suck imo. If I dont replace the stock shocks completely on Traxxas kits then I usually end up putting aluminum shock caps and TiNi shock shafts in the stock bodies but if you have the money Id repalce the whole shock with an aluminum one of some sort. Traxxas big bores are good.

- Part #: 3643X - Camber links, front (TUBES blue-anodized, 7075-T6 aluminum, stronger than titanium) (83mm) (2)/ rod ends (4)/ aluminum wrench (1) (#2579 3x15 BCS (4) required for installation)
Lunsford titanium links are were its at for replacement links if you can still find any floating around out there. (I didnt realize they retired and closed their doors 😢 ) If you can't find lunsford then the 7075 aluminum ones should be good as well or some other brand of titanium links.

And I was looking at picking up an aluminum shock tower as well.. Part #: 6839X
Nothing wrong with putting aluminum shock towers on a kit but I personally wouldnt bother unless I broke one or two of the stock ones.

EDIT: Found MIP18150 X-Duty Front CVD Drive Kit.. are these good?.. I seen a few reviews raving about them.
Definitely go with MIP CVDs or the dogbones either one.

Definitely open to other suggestions on what to upgrade now while I’m at it, even if it’s not currently broken. I was thinking about getting some bigger monster truck style wheels/tires for him, just because of his driving style.. has anyone here went the more monster truck style with the Slash?.. just trying to do what I can to help him not demolish this thing too badly and/or as fast. 😂
Only other advice I have when it comes to hop ups is never go metal on your a-arms or spur gear. Some parts are meant to be plastic to provide an easy to replace and cheap means to prevent breaking more expensive and harder to replace parts. For A-Arms I always go with RPM brand plastic A-Arms. They are super tough but are still plastic. They also have a great warranty on them.
 
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Ehhhh I go all aluminum or just build my own. And yes go steel gears as well. Plastic is crap. I broke more plastic in my time.
 
View attachment 157624
Bad landing on one corner of RC, or arm caught something to cause the damage?
I'm guessing, since the arm is still intact, that it was a bad/weird landing.

I’m not sure, the kids were ripping them up in the open area behind our back yard, not really anything to catch big air on at all and I was trying to watch/help all 3 of them.. I think he must have ran into my sons Maxx at high speed or a tree. I’ve since asked him not to run at high speed into anything else. 😂
The Traxxas stuff is nice, but overpriced in my opinion.

As far as 7075 aluminum being stronger than titanium... I challenge that statement with my 25+ years experience machining both materials. Plus my Jato csme with Traxxas brand links. They snapped like toothpicks. You can't beat Lunsford titanium links, but they are pricey. Here are some on ebay, but shop around.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1431990521...NCCKxqlTp2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

As far as MIP anything, yes it is really good stuff. Those CVD's will be a big improvement.

Aluminum shock towers are ok, but if yours isn't broke, I'm not sure I'd go that route. On my Jato, the heavy aluminum shock tower caused other damage, requiring a massive teardown to replace my transmission housing. Had that been plastic, the light crash the car had would not have broke the trans housing.

If you put bigger tires on it, you will need to lower your pinion tooth count to compensate, otherwise you are going to burn up your motor. The Slash body won't allow much bigger tires anyway would it? I'd stay with stock tire diameter, or close to it. You can drop a tooth or two on the pinion to pick up a little speed, but you will need to monitor motor temps with an infrared temp gun. Keep motor temps below 160°F.

But from the looks of things... she's too fast already 😜
Great stuff.. thank you for the advice. I’ll stay with the stock tires, and yea I think it is a little to quick for him already. 😂


Good upgrade imo. Stock traxxas shocks kinda suck imo. If I dont replace the stock shocks completely on Traxxas kits then I usually end up putting aluminum shock caps and TiNi shock shafts in the stock bodies but if you have the money Id repalce the whole shock with an aluminum one of some sort. Traxxas big bores are good.


Lunsford titanium links are were its at for replacement links if you can still find any floating around out there. (I didnt realize they retired and closed their doors 😢 ) If you can't find lunsford then the 7075 aluminum ones should be good as well or some other brand of titanium links.


Nothing wrong with putting aluminum shock towers on a kit but I personally wouldnt bother unless I broke one or two of the stock ones.


Definitely go with MIP CVDs or the dogbones either one.


Only other advice I have when it comes to hop ups is never go metal on your a-arms or spur gear. Some parts are meant to be plastic to provide an easy to replace and cheap means to prevent breaking more expensive and harder to replace parts. For A-Arms I always go with RPM brand plastic A-Arms. They are super tough but are still plastic. They also have a great warranty on them.

Right on, great stuff. Thank you. 🤘🏼
 
I do agree with others.

Shocks I have the big bore shocks on my slash 2wd and rusted 2wd. Amazing shocks. If you don't want to spend that I would get aluminum shock caps, Traxxas ultra shock retainers, and tini shafts.

Camber links: I have the Traxxas aluminum anodized links on my cars. Only snapped one so far and had a stock link in my spare parts bin. If you can find those titanium links those will be good.

Driveshafts: Traxxas makes their extreme heavy duty plastic driveshafts from the rustler 4x4. But there still plastic 🤷 I would go metal. MIP makes good driveshafts. I have their X duty metal shafts on my slash. They work fine but they are just a little bit more heavy duty. I would go with the MIP C CVD kit. Another option is the Tekno M6 driveshafts but not sure if they fit the slash 4x4. I had seen this one YouTuber using eBay special driveshafts (metal CVDs) and never had any issues with them. I will link if I can find them.

Aluminum parts: the only parts that I would not upgrade to aluminum is suspension arms and shock towers. Aluminum is stronger than plastic but can bend and can't be bent back or unless you really try. Plastic can bend but bend back together. I highly recommend RPM suspension arms front + rear and RPM shock towers front + rear (those upgrades can be later down the road) Just get what you broke replaced and upgraded.
For monster truck tires. I put these Duratrax lockups MT 2.8s on my slash 2wd. Tires rubbing on body, wheels rubbing on suspension arm while turning, motor temps (hot even when gearing down to a 14t pinion) really don't recommend. You can try to but I really don't.
The monster truck tires, I ran with the high CG chassis and LCG chassis. Also ran it when It was brushed. I ran the MT tires on my rustler on brushless, locked up the transmission (burnt the trans case and input shaft) (that was maybe my fault by not tightening the slipper clutch)
Here are those eBay special driveshafts. They are for the stampede 2wd but I think the 2wd and 4wd are the same shafts but just add on a extra pair? 🤔 Not sure https://www.ebay.com/itm/2834268266...WRx7xnYpQ6i&var&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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Ehhhh I go all aluminum or just build my own. And yes go steel gears as well. Plastic is crap. I broke more plastic in my time.
I hate to burst your bubble, but using metal gears can cause something more expensive to be damaged. It's better to use a plastic gear as a failure point. Plastic gears are relatively cheap compared motors/ESCs and the like.
 
The Traxxas lower shock cups suck. My wife's Rustler used to spit them out all the time. I drilled a small hole in them and used a small zip tie to secure them to the spring. Never lost one after that. Then I printed these and they have held up well.

PXL_20230101_170317023.jpg
 
You can upgrade everything to the Traxxas Slash Ultimate aluminum bits and the HD Axles. Or go after market with RPM, Tekno or similar. However, that's not going the solve the problem for a couple of reason.

1. Making one point stronger transfers the load up stream for the next thing to break.
2. There is no indestructible RC.
3. Kids are kids and they will break stuff.

My suggestion (take it for what it's worth) would be let them break the cheap stuff that is easy to fix. Limit them to 2S until they learn not to crash as much and as hard. Also I would involve them in the repair process. If they are working on the vehicle they will appreciate what it takes to fix it and will (hopefully) have a bit more caution. It also gives you some interactive time with your kids and teaches them some basic mechanical skills.

I'm not telling you how to parent or anything like that just my unsolicited 2 cents. In the end do what you like and have fun.
 
You can upgrade everything to the Traxxas Slash Ultimate aluminum bits and the HD Axles. Or go after market with RPM, Tekno or similar. However, that's not going the solve the problem for a couple of reason.

1. Making one point stronger transfers the load up stream for the next thing to break.
2. There is no indestructible RC.
3. Kids are kids and they will break stuff.

My suggestion (take it for what it's worth) would be let them break the cheap stuff that is easy to fix. Limit them to 2S until they learn not to crash as much and as hard. Also I would involve them in the repair process. If they are working on the vehicle they will appreciate what it takes to fix it and will (hopefully) have a bit more caution. It also gives you some interactive time with your kids and teaches them some basic mechanical skills.

I'm not telling you how to parent or anything like that just my unsolicited 2 cents. In the end do what you like and have fun.

Actually just finished putting stuff on it tonight.

-GPM Camber Links
-Traxxas “Big Bore” Shocks
-Tekno Driveshafts

Guess we will see how it holds up.. I’ll probably give him a smaller battery for a little while, until he gets better.

He watched me every step of the way while repairing it.

If he breaks these.. I’ll probably just get the cheap poop and stick to it 😂

A18BBF84-925A-4ECC-A797-B0E4B6BD9954.jpeg
 
Actually just finished putting stuff on it tonight.

-GPM Camber Links
-Traxxas “Big Bore” Shocks
-Tekno Driveshafts

Guess we will see how it holds up.. I’ll probably give him a smaller battery for a little while, until he gets better.

He watched me every step of the way while repairing it.

If he breaks these.. I’ll probably just get the cheap poop and stick to it 😂

View attachment 158018
Thos GPM camber links should hold up well. I have something similar from GPM on the rear of my Kraton 8S. The Traxxas big bores are great shocks and pretty much everything Tekno makes is top notch. Not saying you can't break any of those things but you'd have to work at it :)
 
I don’t think so, I’ll have to look into that. Honestly, I did not even know it had training modes.
Yeah, the Traxxas electronics have a training mode that I believe cuts max power. I can't remember if its by 50% or if it has variable power levels but its great for new folks, especially youngsters.
 
Got my kids some trucks for Xmas, step son already caused some carnage to his Slash 4x4..

I haven’t had time to really dig into it but looks like so far the parts that I can clearly see that were broken were the following..

-Shock Shaft bent
-Bottom of the shock is missing
-Front camber link snapped
-Driveshaft snapped

This will be my first time buying a bunch of stuff for upgrading so just looking for a little help/guidance for these parts and/or anything else I should upgrade while I’m at it to help beef this thing up a little bit for him.

I was browsing the Traxxas site and so far I was looking at the following for replacements/upgrades for the stuff that broke..

- Part #: 5862 - Big Bore shocks (hard-anodized & PTFE-coated T6 aluminum) (assembled with TiN shafts and springs) (front & rear) (4).

- Part #: 3643X - Camber links, front (TUBES blue-anodized, 7075-T6 aluminum, stronger than titanium) (83mm) (2)/ rod ends (4)/ aluminum wrench (1) (#2579 3x15 BCS (4) required for installation)

- Part #: 6851R - Driveshafts, front, steel-spline constant-velocity (complete assembly) (2)


And I was looking at picking up an aluminum shock tower as well.. Part #: 6839X


Will these suffice? Or is there better parts available out there that are not on the Traxxas website?.. any help is much appreciated. Thank you.

EDIT: Found MIP18150 X-Duty Front CVD Drive Kit.. are these good?.. I seen a few reviews raving about them.

Definitely open to other suggestions on what to upgrade now while I’m at it, even if it’s not currently broken. I was thinking about getting some bigger monster truck style wheels/tires for him, just because of his driving style.. has anyone here went the more monster truck style with the Slash?.. just trying to do what I can to help him not demolish this thing too badly and/or as fast. 😂

View attachment 157621

View attachment 157622

View attachment 157623
It looks like my Granite!!! Still saving to fix it
 

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