Feels like I'm just solving one issue after another with nitro!

[Yang]

Took two months to get the thing to the point it was starting, and running reliably.

Several weeks to get it to even start, then after that it was a whole saga to get it tuned.

Then several weeks to get it to shift into second gear. It kept shedding the clutch adjustment screw. Then when I fixed that issue from happening and it was finally reliably shifting into second gear. Then the tires were worn and it wouldn't grip so I replaced those. Then I bent a prop shaft.

Then after I fixed that with beefier shafts the ceramic brake disk got worn completely round so that even with the brake disk locked the c cup could still spin freely.

I've just fixed that with a metal brake disk and now I'm wondering what is the next issue that will reveal itself?! I get round one road block and then there's another massive one.

I've noticed the revs starting to fluctuate just before gear change so I'm guessing some issue related to that will suddenly reveal itself next.


Just once I'd like a session to end when I'm finished driving, not when the car breaks!

Is this the normal nitro experience?

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

Took two months to get the thing to the point it was starting, and running reliably.

Several weeks to get it to even start, then after that it was a whole saga to get it tuned.

Then several weeks to get it to shift into second gear. It kept shedding the clutch adjustment screw. Then when I fixed that issue from happening and it was finally reliably shifting into second gear. Then the tires were worn and it wouldn't grip so I replaced those. Then I bent a prop shaft.

Then after I fixed that with beefier shafts the ceramic brake disk got worn completely round so that even with the brake disk locked the c cup could still spin freely.

I've just fixed that with a metal brake disk and now I'm wondering what is the next issue that will reveal itself?! I get round one road block and then there's another massive one.

I've noticed the revs starting to fluctuate just before gear change so I'm guessing some issue related to that will suddenly reveal itself next.


Just once I'd like a session to end when I'm finished driving, not when the car breaks!

Is this the normal nitro experience?

Was this a new model? What model is it?

And typically yes, regular maintenance, periodic wear items need replaced, and the entire model front to back gone through, putting threadlock, sorting out things, and rechecking hardware is tight.

now as far as your hassle with the engine, break in can be like that, but not that bad.

Is this your first nitro?

 

[Yang]

Was this a new model? What model is it?

And typically yes, regular maintenance, periodic wear items need replaced, and the entire model front to back gone through, putting threadlock, sorting out things, and rechecking hardware is tight.

now as far as your hassle with the engine, break in can be like that, but not that bad.

Is this your first nitro?

first rc car. New HSP flying fish.

 

[tntpoof]

this is Y so many go to electric for 1st rc,, so sorry you had all this happen with your 1st rc,,nitro is a skill some have it others do not and will never ..in the 1970's there was a flying field by me where these guys flew some giant planes all nitro . i spent countless hours there watching listening learning.I said to myself nope not for me.reason with the eway the weather changes here id have to make so many fine adjustments to get that motor to run smooth..

 

[Yang]

Thanks. It is very frustrating.

I'll tell you about my yesterday experience. It was my day off.

In the morning I took the car out. Everything was running great. Engine perfect. Gears shifting. Then suddenly the transmission seized. Car won't go unless I throttle hard and then only crawls forward.

Took it home. Took the engine out, transmission out. Took it apart and put it back together again.

Took the car out again. Engine running great, shifting gears. After 10 minutes the transmission seized. Car won't go again. I've been a propshaft.

Took it home, engine out, transmission out. Took it apart fixed it. Replaced propshaft.

Took it out again. Engine running great, gears great. 5 minutes later. Lose all braking.

The brake disk is worn round and now it can freely spin on the propshaft c cup. See picture.

Took it home, engine out, transmission out, fixed it with an aftermarket metal brake disk.


The car failed FOUR TIMES in one day. And i repaired it FOUR TIMES. I'm waiting to get a chance to reassemble it and test the aftermarket brake disk but I feel it's going to break after 10 minutes yet again.

 

[Maximum_Quake_Pro.com]

HSP is low quality unfortunately,

 

[Tunedfrog]

I'm with TNT on this one as well. Sorry for the luck you are having but I agree, I don't play well with nitro and definitely prefer electric.
On the other hand, I had the Kyosho Mad Crusher that @WickedFog is now the proud parent of and it was the easiest to run and keep running.
I just don't care for nitro.

 

[Yang]

I'm with TNT on this one as well. Sorry for the luck you are having but I agree, I don't play well with nitro and definitely prefer electric.
On the other hand, I had the Kyosho Mad Crusher that @WickedFog is now the proud parent of and it was the easiest to run and keep running.
I just don't care for nitro.

I guess it's on me for doing next to no research into the current state of the hobby. I say it's my first car. But I did have some toys when I was a kid. And back then nitro was just known as the fast rc cars. Electric was not fast. So following that logic I just bought a nitro.

Then I found out that these days, any kid can buy a $100 electric WLtoys that will hit 50mph lol....

 

[Tunedfrog]

I still have one nitro and it's the Tmaxx but I rarely run it.

 

[watertrucker]

I have several HSP Nitro RC’s in my collection. I like them but they are lower end kits. I enjoy the challenge of running them and keeping them up. You might want to to try a Traxxas Nitro for your next RC. I started with a Tmaxx 3.3 and a Nitro Sport. They were easier to learn with and were pretty reliable. Don’t give up on Nitro. It’s awesome when you get it sorted

 

[johnnydmd]

Nitro can be very frustrating for people new to the hobby. There's a lot of nuances in terms of tuning that go beyond even the engine itself that you won't find in electric. For example, the brakes, transmission, throttle curves, it's definitely trickier and there's more that can go wrong.

However, once you "get it" - and by that I mean you know exactly what to adjust by ear/feel, you'll feel very rewarded and that time you spent before on getting the thing running right will seem like a distant memory. You'll be just as "plug in and go" as the electric guys, trust me. And best of all, you'll feel that satisfaction of tweaking carb needles and finding that "sweet spot", and just refilling your tank and playing all day long without stopping.

Another aspect that doesn't get talked a lot about is how a nitro is on the throttle vs an electric. Electric motors start off with instant torque, and a slowly declining power curve as rpm's increase. With a nitro, there is a very "arcing" power curve, and you will learn to master keeping the engine in the curve if you're doing any kind of track racing. It's a blast! And if you get into drag racing with nitro, there are very cool programming tools on higher end radios that are a lot of fun to experiment with that is reminiscent of what the 1:1 guys do.

 

[alfredwong2003]

I have to say, but sorry, you get what you paid for. Quality comes with a price. Just like real car.

 

[gandalfnz]

You will have to sacrifice your time and your first nitro on just learning about these things.
That is why they are a huge challenge to learn how to fix and tune, but 10x more rewarding than electic.
I havent touched my Electrics Slash's for a year now.
Unless you love tinkering and fixing them, then nitro is not for you.
Mind you, electric will be breaking on you just as much.
I would suggest you stick with it, dont abuse it, as HSP's are not that durable.
From the sound of things, most of those faults were cause by either not checking the car over before each run, and improper use to some extent.
As the time goes on, and you become more experienced, you will know what too look for a listen, therefore preventing breakdowns before they occur.
I went trough all this myself as well!
Good Luck and dont give up on it. Spare parts are super cheap for these where you are anyway.

 

[Yang]

Just took it out for 20 minutes. The servo horn for the throttle fell off and I got a run away. Had to kick it onto it's roof and plug the exhaust.

Being upside down, the brake actuator and piston fell out as it's only held in by gravity.

Which means... All together now... Engine out transmission out

 

[gandalfnz]

Just took it out for 20 minutes. The servo horn for the throttle fell off and I got a run away. Had to kick it onto it's roof and plug the exhaust.

Being upside down, the brake actuator and piston fell out as it's only held in by gravity.

Which means... All together now... Engine out transmission out

As I said, you need to give it a once over after each drive, check all the screws etc, make sure its tight, so this doesn't happen.
This applies to nitro and electric.

A mate of mine has two of the same HSP's, hes abused them over and over, and nothing broken on them, although 2 speed does work.

Piston fell out?

 

[Yang]

This brake actuator is just held in by gravity. If it moves up the brake piston will shift position and the brakes won't work. It's an engine out transmission out repair. This is what ends most of my sessions. Because if the car catches any air it will move up and the piston will dislodged. Crappy design?

I just fixed the car about 30 minutes ago, took it out again, was running great and this happened again. Engine out transmission out again!!!!

https://streamable.com/3q666t

 

[gandalfnz]

This brake actuator is just held in by gravity. If it moves up the brake piston will shift position and the brakes won't work. It's an engine out transmission out repair. This is what ends most of my sessions. Because if the car catches any air it will move up and the piston will dislodged. Crappy design?

I just fixed the car about 30 minutes ago, took it out again, was running great and this happened again. Engine out transmission out again!!!!

https://streamable.com/3q666t

That tranny is not original, its all alu?
Was it like this on the original tranny?
I would bend a piece of aluminium, like an L shape, then sika/silicone it to that vertical square bar, so it prevents the brake from coming out.

 

[Yang]

That tranny is not original, its all alu?
Was it like this on the original tranny?
I would bend a piece of aluminium, like an L shape, then sika/silicone it to that vertical square bar, so it prevents the brake from coming out.

It's an all alu aftermarket transmission to replace the stock plastic one.

I got it because it has an open top, it's very easy to see the clutch and check the screws and adjust the shift screw if needed. It likes to shed these screws so it's also good I can check at a glance.

The stock transmission is covered and you need to turn the car over and shine a light through a small hole to see the screws. Not ideal.

My stock transmission never shifted.

My

 

[alfredwong2003]

This brake actuator is just held in by gravity. If it moves up the brake piston will shift position and the brakes won't work. It's an engine out transmission out repair. This is what ends most of my sessions. Because if the car catches any air it will move up and the piston will dislodged. Crappy design?

I just fixed the car about 30 minutes ago, took it out again, was running great and this happened again. Engine out transmission out again!!!!

https://streamable.com/3q666t

Add a little spring that you can screw in with the servo plate/mount to hold the control rod down.

 

[gandalfnz]

Add a little spring that you can screw in with the servo plate/mount to hold the control rod down.

Do you have the original tranny?