Techno EB 410 4WD Buggy.

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Iowa crawler

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I found a used EB410 with a bad motor to race with. It is set up for carpet but I will race dirt and it needs a fluid change. The seller included gaskets for the differentials and the cartridge kit for the shocks.
I have tires and fluids all I need to race is a transponder but the race is June 5. The rig is already upgraded with metal shock caps and front sway bar. It has carbon shock towers and the body is painted. My plan is to get the rig in the mail and be running it tomorrow. That’s like a 24 hour challenge to take an unknown thing. Completely disassemble and reassemble and set up. The body is painted and I have a set of tires mounted that might fit and a new set to race. Let’s see how much fun I can have on a Friday night.
 

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The beast arrived safe and sound. The seller tossed in an extra wing also. The motor is definitely toast, the battery terminals are to big for my battery and I have to mount up a set of tires. Step one go out for some beer and Mexican food.
 

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Ok I gotta hit the hobby shop in the morning for wheels. I tried acetone and heat and scraping to get the old tire stuff off. I am just going to use a set of worn out tires and buy new rims.
Time to rebuild the shocks. The lower rear shock mount bolts are stuck. I can work around that for now. One side is leaking. But I got all new seals and a kit to fix a problem they have pumping themselves full of air.
 

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Rebuilding the shocks with the MIP cartridge kit and green slime.
500 cSt oil front and rear.
 

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Found a jar to trap the fumes. Let’s see how that works.

The shocks are done everything is clean. Now the diffs
Rear end is done except for the pills. I want to set it up like the instructions say. It’s nice it came with Exotek rear knuckles.
 

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As I’m trying to reassemble the rear suspension something is not right. And I thought I messed up. But the whole thing is backwards. The control arms are on the ring sides so the droop pins don’t line up and the shocks are on the front. And the sway bar is on the front.
But it did come with a nice Exotek center differential.
 

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It’s midnight and I’m done. The wheels are from my 2WD buggy and so is the 13.5 motor. This thing should rip.
 

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I’m ready to go but the weather is a little iffy. I got three of four wheels done. Soaking in acetone works wonders at removing the rubber tire from the wheel. About six hours and the rubber comes off like a rubber band with no glue at all on the rim.

The rig is used and obviously raced or driven hard. The shocks were mounted in the front position and the lower control armies were mixed up. Plus the shock bolt will not come out of the lower control arm. To make matters worse the lower spring perch was backwards. This prevented the suspension from moving freely and the mixed up control arms caused the droop screws to miss the perch. And the rear sway bar has a special mount to move it to the front facing backwards. None of this was according to the set up sheet. And there is a stripped screw in the front diff cover. Plenty of upgraded parts and over all in great shape. Should be super fun to race.
I need a programming card for the ESC, new control arms and a new diff cover. Between that and tires I’m still under the cost of the kit.
 
Removing the tires from the wheels is a time thing. My advice is to go to the hardware store and buy a one gallon paint can with a lid. And get a gallon of acetone. When you want to remove the old tires cut then off the rim. Put the rims in the paint can and fill the can with acetone.
Let it sit for 24-48 hours and the tires simply fall off the rim.
 

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From the mailbox to the track in 24 hours. The EB410 is amazing. I put in a 13.5 motor I had but with a 6.5 this thing will storm. Drive for about an hour on and off and it’s so much fun. It seems like it drives it’s self. The front wheels pull it forward and all you do is stay on the throttle and point it. I could tell I was setting personal best times. It screams around the big turns and in the tight stuff it is power off grip. I’m gonna play with the Ackerman a little. I just could not stop driving it. Race is June 5. Can’t wait. Looking for 20 second laps.
 

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Funny how the brain works sometimes. I’m laying there in bed all cozy and comfy thinking about my EB410. The guy said the motor was damaged because the timing was advanced. I found it funny that someone would put together something with so many glaring mistakes. Things that really hurt performance. Yet set the timing up looking for more power or something. THATS when it hit me. I bet the timing in the ESC is STILL set to 64 deg of boost timing. And if I don’t check it I could burn up my motor. So I had t on get up at 3:00am and order a Fantom ESC programmer for 29 bucks.
 
It sucks when you are just on the edge of sleep, and your brain pops out the one tidbit that you don't want to forget, and you have to take care of it. 😟
 
I also don’t have reverse. That’s fine for racing but sucks for practice. So I already found the program card. But was kinda waiting till later to buy it. But when I thought about burning up a good Trinity 13.5 motor I just ordered it.
 
As I’m trying to reassemble the rear suspension something is not right. And I thought I messed up. But the whole thing is backwards. The control arms are on the ring sides so the droop pins don’t line up and the shocks are on the front. And the sway bar is on the front.
But it did come with a nice Exotek center differential.
The original Tekno RC EB410 had the rear shocks mounted on the back of the rear arms. People started racing the Tekno RC EB410 on tighter/higher traction turf/carpet and they wanted better rotation from the buggy... moving the rear arms/shocks/anti sway bar around became common practice and is now the stock setup orientation on the Tekno RC EB410.2 buggy. For outdoor loose/medium traction dirt tracks, I'd probably go with stock manual setup to start testing with.
 
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That explains the thought process. The execution was the problem. Like the shocks are backwards so the cups were binding with the lower control arm. I like this buggy so much I might get the 410.2
 
That explains the thought process. The execution was the problem. Like the shocks are backwards so the cups were binding with the lower control arm. I like this buggy so much I might get the 410.2
Bringing a used RC home should always involve a complete tear down/rebuild IMO. Just like you found out... those little "Easter eggs" may have a person scratching their head 🤔. I normally don't buy used RCs, but the one that I bought was stated by the previous owner to be very well taken care of... one of those self proclaimed "I'm a professional RC builder" deals 🤣. During tear down/rebuild, I found a lot of little things not to my liking and even missing bearing crush tubes, missing spacers, wrong hardware, etc., etc.
It’s midnight and I’m done. The wheels are from my 2WD buggy and so is the 13.5 motor. This thing should rip.
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I didn't take a close look at your pic before I posted about reverting everything back to stock setup in the manual, but it looks like you already got the rear shocks, arms, and sway bar sorted out.:thumbs-up:
 
Ya I am very new at racing RC. I know how to race. But not how to drive. So I set up everything chording to the setup sheet in the manual and go from there. I would not buy used normally. But I could see this was a very well upgraded rig with servo and ESC for half the cost of the kit.
 
The rear shock bolts are left hand thread. That’s is why I was having trouble getting them out. I did not get a manual with this rig. I do have an online version and found the instructions. Left hand thread is for the left side shocks. Who ever built this put right hand thread in front and left in the rear. It’s an easy fix.
 

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I got a new Trinity 6.5 motor. Let’s just say it has more power than a 13.5 just stock motor does.
After installing it is was going through the set up sheet and found a couple tiny things I still needed to check and I put it on the scale. Seems like I need to turn the rear springs a lot more than I want to get my ride height . Yes it has the wrong springs. At least for the set up sheet . It has slightly stiffer front and way soft rear. I’m going with the set up sheet.
 

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