3d Printed No prep build

[WickedFog]

One thing you can do is print parts in 2 pieces. Have the layer lines going one way on one part, and perpendicular on the other. This creates a lot more strength in the overall design.

Like for control arms, if you lay them on the bed so the hinge pin holes are going along the Z axis, you will have less change of them delaminating along the hole. But then, any impact to the arm will likely split the arm. So if you design it so the hinge pin bosses bolt onto the structural part of the arms, which would be printed flat on the bed, you end up with a pretty strong arm.

Same goes for the bulkheads. It would be best for the hinge pin holes to be printed vertically, while the area that bolts to the shock tower is designed to print flat on the bed.

It's tough to get some designs to have an ideal orientation on the print bed without compromising the design somewhere else. So that is why I typically split pieces up.

 

[2wdMod]

One thing you can do is print parts in 2 pieces. Have the layer lines going one way on one part, and perpendicular on the other. This creates a lot more strength in the overall design.

Like for control arms, if you lay them on the bed so the hinge pin holes are going along the Z axis, you will have less change of them delaminating along the hole. But then, any impact to the arm will likely split the arm. So if you design it so the hinge pin bosses bolt onto the structural part of the arms, which would be printed flat on the bed, you end up with a pretty strong arm.

Same goes for the bulkheads. It would be best for the hinge pin holes to be printed vertically, while the area that bolts to the shock tower is designed to print flat on the bed.

It's tough to get some designs to have an ideal orientation on the print bed without compromising the design somewhere else. So that is why I typically split pieces up.

You must not have read my post .. It was totallly my fault , I jammed a bolt into a blind hole that was too long.. would have split no matter the orientation.

 

[WickedFog]

You must not have read my post .. It was totallly my fault , I jammed a bolt into a blind hole that was too long.. would have split no matter the orientation.

Oh a blind hole, ok. I read it. I was just thinking about the layer lines going the opposite direction. Gotcha.

 

[2wdMod]

So I have been running the crap out of the pink Camaro tweaking and tuning the 5900 sensorless system. with the 2s batteries (25c) I have the best I can get out of it in 132 is the first few passes I ran with it. That being said what I have been able to do is test things like the durability of the transmission I chose off amazon , which for being a $20 off the shelf unit has performed super! So I decided since my sensored system is arriving this week I might as well just build another car to run that set-up in so I am spending today finishing the printed parts for the build.. I have ordered up some new li-pos that are 120c rated so I will be running those in both cars.. For the new car I'm still undecided on body , leaning towards corvette .. But it will be running a 4.5 sensored system . Heres where car 2 is at as of this morning..

 

[Doom!]

Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

 

[2wdMod]

As I have been building the 2nd chassis for my son I have also been tinkering toward the actual intended direction of this project. A 4 link , MOA style rear end .. For right now I decided to use a proven drive train as I start tinkering with the 4 link so I am printing a rear end that will use the metal gear transmission I designed the previous build around in a configuration with static arms and camber links to essentially make a solid axle out of it as easily as possible with the current pieces. I decided on running the battery perpendicular across the chassis as that configuration keeps the weight bias toward the rear since the motor and trans weight are now unsprung weight as part of the rear axle. I have the 4 link "rear pod" printing out now as I redesign the rear main chassis half.. I intend on keeping the front portion pretty much as I have used in the first build.. Traxxas bandit based.

 

[2wdMod]

God I love 3d printers .. from drawing to prototype overnight.. BTW using up some partial spools , so this first couple drafts are going to be rainbow chassis.. Also including a short vid showing rear end articulation.

https://rumble.com/v18ootg-110-nprc-4-link-moa-ptorotype.html

 

[Doom!]

BTW using up some partial spools , so this first couple drafts are going to be rainbow chassis..

I thought you were just celebrating Pride month!

 

[ahr43]

N-i-c-e!

 

[2wdMod]

Little update on the solid axle set up. I have established that with all the motor and transmission weight being static unsprung weight the MOA set up just doesn't produce enough weight transfer to maintain traction off the line.. It works nice with like 13.5/10.5 power , but for any more than that the 'traditional' set up is the way to go..

 

[Doom!]

Crazy how little things make a big difference in performance.

 

[Chubaka]

God I love 3d printers .. from drawing to prototype overnight.. BTW using up some partial spools , so this first couple drafts are going to be rainbow chassis.. Also including a short vid showing rear end articulation. View attachment 147995View attachment 147996https://rumble.com/v18ootg-110-nprc-4-link-moa-ptorotype.html

Is this the rustler traxxas should have built? Me likey.

 

[2wdMod]

Alright , if you want a go at printing one of these guys yourself the files are posted for FREE on my cults page guys!!
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-10-r-c-drag-chassis

 

[johnnydmd]

For the record, my 3d printed arms held up pretty well until my brother in law hit a curb at full throttle Had no issues with the PLA ones. I will say tho that the resin ones, I noticed a sag in them over time - but that's likely due to the type of resin I used which was softer and more pliable.

 

[2wdMod]

For the record, my 3d printed arms held up pretty well until my brother in law hit a curb at full throttle Had no issues with the PLA ones. I will say tho that the resin ones, I noticed a sag in them over time - but that's likely due to the type of resin I used which was softer and more pliable.

Yeah, i'm really quite amazed at how well standard old PLA+ holds up .. havent had her out on any 100* days though, so you know..LOL , tried PETG but the parts were so flexxy I went back to PLA..

 

[2wdMod]

we have our first confirmed build of this by someone other than myself.. He did a good job!!

 

[ahr43]

Nice.

Curious? Is that a removeable 3D-printed spacer block in the battery bay? Makes for a clean, secure install of a 'shorty' in a full-length battery bay. Something I could use instead of multiple hard foam spacers taped together. Thanks. 'AC'

 

[2wdMod]

Nice.

Curious? Is that a removeable 3D-printed spacer block in the battery bay? Makes for a clean, secure install of a 'shorty' in a full-length battery bay. Something I could use instead of multiple hard foam spacers taped together. Thanks. 'AC'

It kind of is .. its a stretched rustler chassis so it almost holds a standard and a shorty without spacers so the one pictured is for that battery bay. but yeah I started printing spacers a while back instead of using foam blocks and what not.. 2 walls,3 top /bottom and like 5% infill and they weigh almost nothing..