Can I use Loctite on the screws that hold the shocks to the shock tower?

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The_RC_Dude

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Hi everyone, I'm about to straighten (again, second time, didn't get it good the first time) the front shock tower of my Wltoys 144001 (don't ask what happened, it includes my uncle), and I was wondering if I could use (blue 242) Loctite on the screws that hold all 4 shocks to their respective shock towers. I, like some people, leave the screws/nuts in question slightly loosened so that (so that there's a little bit of rotational play), in a crash, I can hopefully prevent bending my shock shafts (if it's a smaller crash), or just break less stuff (in a bigger crash), hopefully. The thing is, since they are not snugged down, they like to loosen too much over time, which is annoying. Could I just put a little bit of Loctite on the threads where the nut sits? I'm mainly wondering if there will be any unseen/hidden drawbacks to doing this, thanks!
 
You should use Loctite any time you have a screw going into metal. Just make sure not to use too much. It also works best if you put the Loctite on the screw and let it set up before installing the screws. This makes it a bit easier to remove the screws later. If you do let it setup, it's best to keep the first thread or two clear of any Loctite to make it easier to start the thread.
 
If my plastic strips out, I've been known to use locktite in plastic, and I've also used longer screws with nuts also.

The only drawback is if you use too much it will work you mentally and physically if your not experinced in it trying to get it off.

If it was me, id order a few spare parts and try it anyways.
 
If my plastic strips out, I've been known to use locktite in plastic, and I've also used longer screws with nuts also.

The only drawback is if you use too much it will work you mentally and physically if your not experinced in it trying to get it off.

If it was me, id order a few spare parts and try it anyways.
Good idear! But the car he has actually has aluminum shock towers, and the screws go into lock nuts.

@The_RC_Dude
I totally forgot to add last night...
The whole leaving the shock screws a bit loose here has me a bit confused. Leaving them loose is not going to do anything but wear out the hole the screw goes through. That is if the screws don't wear and break first. Bad idea in my opinion. And you have locknuts on there for a reason. Tighten them down. No Loctite needed..
 
If you’re leaving it loose to allow it to rotate I’d think using loctite would defeat that.

Since putting on better shocks I’ve been pulling the screw out on the arm and they’re getting stripped. Need new arm soon. Idk if it’d been better to just keep putting the shock cap back on the traxxas ultras or of course keep air time under 15ft.
 
Screw and nut should be tight. The M3 nut used to secure your shocks to the shock towers is a locking nut. The nylon inside the lock nut grabs the screws threads and prevents loosening. Over time, the nylon wears down from repeated loosening/tightening, and they need replaced. Your shock cap eyelets should have bushings in them that allow the shocks to pivot when the arms are moving.
 
You should use Loctite any time you have a screw going into metal. Just make sure not to use too much. It also works best if you put the Loctite on the screw and let it set up before installing the screws. This makes it a bit easier to remove the screws later. If you do let it setup, it's best to keep the first thread or two clear of any Loctite to make it easier to start the thread.
Yup, I'm aware, I just wanted to make sure since there are some parts that you may not want to use Loctite on. Thanks for the tip!
Good idear! But the car he has actually has aluminum shock towers, and the screws go into lock nuts.

@The_RC_Dude
I totally forgot to add last night...
The whole leaving the shock screws a bit loose here has me a bit confused. Leaving them loose is not going to do anything but wear out the hole the screw goes through. That is if the screws don't wear and break first. Bad idea in my opinion. And you have locknuts on there for a reason. Tighten them down. No Loctite needed..
Yup, metal towers and locknuts.

Oh, hmm, good point, never thought about that, on my front towers I have 3 different holes, so you can adjust your shock position and angle, and the holes that the screws are in are the most outer ones (it came like that stock, and no reason to change it), and they are like 1/3 of a mm wider than the other two holes. Amain also recommended leaving them a little loose in one

Edit: I tightened the screws/nuts up yesterday (or on Saturday)
You could always get longer screws. Then double nut it at the tower so it doesn't move/ backoff
Yeah, interesting idea! I think I'll just tighten the screws/nuts down after reading what @WickedFrog said.
Screw and nut should be tight. The M3 nut used to secure your shocks to the shock towers is a locking nut. The nylon inside the lock nut grabs the screws threads and prevents loosening. Over time, the nylon wears down from repeated loosening/tightening, and they need replaced. Your shock cap eyelets should have bushings in them that allow the shocks to pivot when the arms are moving.
Gotcha, they do have the little rotating bushings.
 
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Hi everyone, I'm about to straighten (again, second time, didn't get it good the first time) the front shock tower of my Wltoys 144001 (don't ask what happened, it includes my uncle), and I was wondering if I could use (blue 242) Loctite on the screws that hold all 4 shocks to their respective shock towers. I, like some people, leave the screws/nuts in question slightly loosened so that (so that there's a little bit of rotational play), in a crash, I can hopefully prevent bending my shock shafts (if it's a smaller crash), or just break less stuff (in a bigger crash), hopefully. The thing is, since they are not snugged down, they like to loosen too much over time, which is annoying. Could I just put a little bit of Loctite on the threads where the nut sits? I'm mainly wondering if there will be any unseen/hidden drawbacks to doing this, thanks!
I don't use locktite! I use fishing line 14 lb works real good plus you don't have to heat the part to disassemble .
Also if you strip the threads this trick will get you for awhile
 
I don't use locktite! I use fishing line 14 lb works real good plus you don't have to heat the part to disassemble .
Also if you strip the threads this trick will get you for awhile
I have never had to heat a part to disassemble using Loctite. You have to use 242 blue. If you use red it is a lot stronger bond and you would probably need heat with that.
 
I have never had to heat a part to disassemble using Loctite. You have to use 242 blue. If you use red it is a lot stronger bond and you would probably need heat with that.
I agree!! The red is just to much, I think 242 is for light retention of bearing races and you might be right it's good for rc cars, but I still like fishing line lol
 
242 is for screws that you want to remove. Red is a more permanent bond.
 
It works the same , screws races , same purpose. Fishing line is better though
 
It works the same , screws races , same purpose. Fishing line is better though
I will have to try that. I have used 3d printing filament to repair plastic threads. I just heat it and stretch it out and stick it in with the screw. Works like a charm. I am guessing fishing line would do the same thing.
 
I will have to try that. I have used 3d printing filament to repair plastic threads. I just heat it and stretch it out and stick it in with the screw. Works like a charm. I am guessing fishing line would do the same thing.
As you drive your screw it will create heat so yes same principle
 
I don't use locktite! I use fishing line 14 lb works real good plus you don't have to heat the part to disassemble .
Also if you strip the threads this trick will get you for awhile
Never heard of that approach before! After reading what some of guys said about this whole leaving-the-nut-slightly-loose thing, I decided to add a little dab of Loctite, and snug the nuts up. BTW don't know if I said this before, but I use 242 blue Loctite, which is medium strength, you can remove it with hand tools, it's ideal for RC use. You're thinking about the red Loctite, that stuff is high strength and needs heat for removal.

So you're saying the fishing line will kinda help create new threads in the part that you're screwing into?
I have never had to heat a part to disassemble using Loctite. You have to use 242 blue. If you use red it is a lot stronger bond and you would probably need heat with that.
Heat is required for red Loctite, I've heard and seen that the stuff is strong!
I will have to try that. I have used 3d printing filament to repair plastic threads. I just heat it and stretch it out and stick it in with the screw. Works like a charm. I am guessing fishing line would do the same thing.
So you heat the filament up, stick it in the screw hole, and thread the screw in as usual?
 
So you heat the filament up, stick it in the screw hole, and thread the screw in as usual?
Yeah, I just get it nice and melty and string it out and jam it in the hole. Kinda like using a dowel to fix a hole in wood.
 
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Hi! I don't think it's good to leave the screws slightly loose. The shock tower is not so well assembled and is not very high quality, and will often weaken due to the screws. If you use quality screws, they will not lead to shock shafts or break. I say this from my own experience. I saw a major difference in my work after using the screws ordered from scrooz.com.au. I screw them as tight as possible, keeping my construction very good and qualitative. In such installations as the front shock tower of the Wltoys 144001, it matters how qualitative the screws are.
 
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