Noobs xmaxx build.

[armykyle1]

First off, I want to think everyone for their helpful input and great threads so far. I've definitely picked up a lot of information in a few days. I didn't want to clutter up other people's threads and I wasn't sure where to put this thread so here it is.

I picked up the xmaxx a few days ago, rc noob, broke it in about 15min haha. My first round of parts have arrived traxxas HD arms, hinge pin kit, fast eddy bearing kit. I'll eventually be running blue upper and lower arms. The green arms I could get quicker. If these don't last, I'll probably get the rpm arms. Probably do the rpm hinge pin kit as well.

Future upgrades are up in the air. I have bigger better batteries on the way and XT90 connectors. I plan on using this as my learning experience for large scale rc's or rc's in general.

 

[Dewalt Drill]

if you haven't done it yet get a hardened spur and pinion and red loctite to hold em in they will strip so get spares

 

[STONER RC]

Whats up bud. Love getting RC parts. So what are you looking for or how to use the X. Bashing, speed, airing it out.. first off definitely get harden steel pinon and spur. You can get a set of pinions 18T - 21T. Spur gear 48T - 54T. .1 mod gears. I run 20pinon and 50 spur. I would definitely get some loctite. Only used on metal to metal. I use blue 242. It's a little easier to break free. Then the red 271. And use it on pionon gear grub screw and spur gear mounting screws. Fasteddys are #1 on the list as well. Personally I would pull off the diff covers and check fluid levels. Just to be sure. Stock is 50k in front 30k in rear. I run 50/50 front and rear.. If your a basher or like jumping the X. I would recommend thicker shock oil. I use 60wt. All the way around and a set of stiffer springs from VG racing.com in cali. Can also look at the RPM rear hubs. The stock one will break eventually. If take. Hard landings firm big air.. you can strengthen the body with some sheet rock taping mesh and shoo goo.. won't let the lexan body flex as much basically underneath body armor.. if you like airing it out definitely look at some aluminum caps.. I run shock socks to keep dirt and sand dust. From the bottom seal. They also make shock guards. Which protects against rocks kicking up into rear shocks. Not sure what they due for the front shocks. Still trying to figure that out. Unless your racing I don't know what they do.. the esc and motor are OK. For the most part. I really wouldn't suggest using the auto flip. You can do it by the throttle. But I definitely wouldn't use the button. As it's only ment to be used on certain terrain. Or you will rip your diffs apart.. I also wouldn't use the motor set pins. I pulled them out first thing. They are not a perfect gear mesh. And you will strip spurs and pinions. Just do the gear mesh by hand then tighten the screws. Would also suggest some washers for the motor set screws. Or they make special motor screw spacers/washers for the X in any color.. to keep run of screws spray entire truck down with any dry lubricant let sit wipe of extra. Add a layer off protection to your screw heads against rust..I don't like aluminum parts only for covers and steering. The stock servo 2085 will be ok but will strip only plastic. The 2085X is a decent servo with all metal gears. That should have been the stock servo. But you can just upgrade to it. The stiffer springs in the kit for the servo savor really makes a big difference from the stock servo. Or can just go with a Savxo servo. Those are a little over 100$. But most of all it's all about haven fun with a kid like smile on your face.. happy bashing any questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

[Greywolf74]

Sounds like a good game plan

 

[STONER RC]

Sorry went maybe a little over board with the info... I got more about the electronics and with the esc and motor.. if you want that info too? Just want you to have as much fun with your X as I do with my STONERX. It's a beast of a RC truck.. alot of bad info and reviews out there from jack wagons. That don't know crap about RC and went out and bought the X. Because it looks cool. And they saw it on YT. Or asked what's the biggest baddest RC in the hobby shop..No other reason or knowledge in the RC hobby...
BASH IT FIX IT SEND IT FIX REPEAT......

 

[armykyle1]

if you haven't done it yet get a hardened spur and pinion and red loctite to hold em in they will strip so get spares

Added to the list.

Whats up bud. Love getting RC parts. So what are you looking for or how to use the X. Bashing, speed, airing it out.. first off definitely get harden steel pinon and spur. You can get a set of pinions 18T - 21T. Spur gear 48T - 54T. .1 mod gears. I run 20pinon and 50 spur. I would definitely get some loctite. Only used on metal to metal. I use blue 242. It's a little easier to break free. Then the red 271. And use it on pionon gear grub screw and spur gear mounting screws. Fasteddys are #1 on the list as well. Personally I would pull off the diff covers and check fluid levels. Just to be sure. Stock is 50k in front 30k in rear. I run 50/50 front and rear.. If your a basher or like jumping the X. I would recommend thicker shock oil. I use 60wt. All the way around and a set of stiffer springs from VG racing.com in cali. Can also look at the RPM rear hubs. The stock one will break eventually. If take. Hard landings firm big air.. you can strengthen the body with some sheet rock taping mesh and shoo goo.. won't let the lexan body flex as much basically underneath body armor.. if you like airing it out definitely look at some aluminum caps.. I run shock socks to keep dirt and sand dust. From the bottom seal. They also make shock guards. Which protects against rocks kicking up into rear shocks. Not sure what they due for the front shocks. Still trying to figure that out. Unless your racing I don't know what they do.. the esc and motor are OK. For the most part. I really wouldn't suggest using the auto flip. You can do it by the throttle. But I definitely wouldn't use the button. As it's only ment to be used on certain terrain. Or you will rip your diffs apart.. I also wouldn't use the motor set pins. I pulled them out first thing. They are not a perfect gear mesh. And you will strip spurs and pinions. Just do the gear mesh by hand then tighten the screws. Would also suggest some washers for the motor set screws. Or they make special motor screw spacers/washers for the X in any color.. to keep run of screws spray entire truck down with any dry lubricant let sit wipe of extra. Add a layer off protection to your screw heads against rust..I don't like aluminum parts only for covers and steering. The stock servo 2085 will be ok but will strip only plastic. The 2085X is a decent servo with all metal gears. That should have been the stock servo. But you can just upgrade to it. The stiffer springs in the kit for the servo savor really makes a big difference from the stock servo. Or can just go with a Savxo servo. Those are a little over 100$. But most of all it's all about haven fun with a kid like smile on your face.. happy bashing any questions don't hesitate to ask.

I'm not sure what I'll be doing honestly. Still feeling it out I'm not concerned with making it faster, yet lol. Reliability will be the first concern, then adding speed. I'll definitely be checking the diffs. I think I'll definitely go higher on the shock oil too. I'll probably go ahead and order hardened gears and servo. So I'll have them ready.
I'm actually liking the mix matched arms. I'll probably be removing the stainless skid plate. Just seeing if helps with wheelies and steering (extra weight over the wheels).

 

[STONER RC]

Added to the list.





I'm not sure what I'll be doing honestly. Still feeling it out I'm not concerned with making it faster, yet lol. Reliability will be the first concern, then adding speed. I'll definitely be checking the diffs. I think I'll definitely go higher on the shock oil too. I'll probably go ahead and order hardened gears and servo. So I'll have them ready.
I'm actually liking the mix matched arms. I'll probably be removing the stainless skid plate. Just seeing if helps with wheelies and steering (extra weight over the wheels).

Nice looks cool.. the stainless really doesn't add weight. I personally don't like them due to the fact you have to take off the stock plates. And those bend not flex.. look at
T-bone racing Xmaxx chassis plate. It hovers over the stock plate they also make very strong front and rear skids as well. And beefy bumpers aslo..
Yes it's stainless but only 2mm thick. Not very strong especially at that thickness..And the X is a very big heavy truck. But let us know how it works for you...

Reliability is key. Just watch you temps on esc and motor running the stock gearing. With speed runs they will go into thermal shutdown. Shoot I hit it 10mins into first ever run in the sand down at the park by my house. Never again will I run in sand. Or at least till I get paddles and castle set up.. or a HW but most likely castle...

That's why I'm running 20/50. Even at the stock 18/54. It will get hot usejng a heavy throttle finger for long periods of time. That's why you hear and read all these reviews about the esc smoking and frying. It can't take the stress load. Traxxas makes a great RC but come up short with their electronics.

If your going to use the red loctite. Be careful not to make it to tight. You won't be able to get the parts off again or gear. The reds permanent. Until you find a gear set up that works for you I would use blue. It's a medium and will allow you to break it free.

That's why alot of RC hobbiest use blue first. Then use red when they have it they way they want it... then lock it up. My pinon gear slid off after first run. Had to loctite it. Before next session... good luck bud we will be here...

 

[armykyle1]

Nice looks cool.. the stainless really doesn't add weight. I personally don't like them due to the fact you have to take off the stock plates. And those bend not flex.. look at
T-bone racing Xmaxx chassis plate. It hovers over the stock plate they also make very strong front and rear skids as well. And beefy bumpers aslo..

It's pretty hefty honestly. I'll weigh it later when I find my kitchen scale. I seemed to have misplaced it when I was weighing titanium hardware for my beadlocks. I already took it off . It definitely doesn't wheelie as good.

 

[STONER RC]

It's pretty hefty honestly. I'll weigh it later when I find my kitchen scale. I seemed to have misplaced it when I was weighing titanium hardware for my beadlocks. I already took it off . It definitely doesn't wheelie as good.

Sorry I'm lost.. the skid plates aren't going to help it not to wheelie as much.. sh*t if you added any weight?? I would be surprised maybe a 1lb...if that... not sure how that helps hold down X. Against wheelies. But ok sure
Stock the X weights 20lbs. You sure you somehow didn't put it into training mode. There is 3 different esc modes on the X?? Very curious about this??? I will weigh mine it's completely stock...20.5lbs.
I can make a video also..of weighing it. If anyone questions the weight.

 

[armykyle1]

Sorry I'm lost.. the skid plates aren't going to help it not to wheelie as much.. sh*t if you added any weight?? I would be surprised maybe a 1lb...if that... not sure how that helps hold down X. Against wheelies. But ok sure

Stainless steel is pretty heavy, typically heavier than regular steel. The front plate is 288g or roughly 10.3oz. I only did a quick run and didn't care for the subtle changes.

Total weight for the skid plate kit is 1.10lbs.
Only adding weight to the front, will hold front down more, whereas adding weight all over, not as much.

 

[STONER RC]

1lb.. like I said and thats the whole kit you said. And you only have the front skid on? So only 10oz.. umm. Ok if you say so bud awesome.. I'm glad it works for you bud that's all that matters. Nothing else... cool beans

 

[armykyle1]

1lb.. like I said and thats the whole kit you said. And you only have the front skid on? So only 10oz.. umm. Ok if you say so bud awesome.. I'm glad it works for you bud that's all that matters. Nothing else... cool beans

I didn't say anything works or doesn't works. It's possible it was in training mode too. I had no idea that was a thing until just now. I got the truck second hand and only things I got was the extra gear, radio and roof rack.

 

[STONER RC]

I didn't say anything works or doesn't works. It's possible it was in training mode too. I had no idea that was a thing until just now. I got the truck second hand and only things I got was the extra gear, radio and roof rack.

No worries bud didn't mean anything by it. Yes there's different esc modes you can put it in.did you get the manual. If not download one. That has a lot of info you need about the esc setting and modes. Just search Xmaxx 8s manual... its bed time 430am comes quick will hit you up tomorrow see how you made out bud
Here's the manual for you bud..

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/8cuzmRVBjXMG

 

[Greywolf74]

I'll probably go ahead and order hardened gears and servo. So I'll have them ready.

I would not put a metal spur on anything. Just like A-Arms the spur is designed to be a cheap and easy spot to fix in the event you develop issues in your drive line. The only time a plastic spur should get stripped is if you have an issue either with the drive line or the gear mesh. I've never put metal spurs in any of my kits and the only times I've stripped them is like I said above. Issue with excessive drag in the driveline (generally from bearings going/gone bad or having my motor slip in the motor mount.

I also think its a terrible idea to use red loctite on a kit anywhere. I did that once and tore up a couple of wrenches trying to get it free. I use blue first and if for some rare reason that doesn't seem to be good enough (Almost always is) then I use orange.

Just my .02 on that

I'm actually liking the mix matched arms.

I like them too

It's pretty hefty honestly. I'll weigh it later when I find my kitchen scale. I seemed to have misplaced it when I was weighing titanium hardware for my beadlocks. I already took it off . It definitely doesn't wheelie as good.

If you like using the SS plate and you want it to wheelie better you can always drop to a smaller tooth pinion. That will help it wheelie better

 

[STONER RC]

I would not put a metal spur on anything. Just like A-Arms the spur is designed to be a cheap and easy spot to fix in the event you develop issues in your drive line. The only time a plastic spur should get stripped is if you have an issue either with the drive line or the gear mesh. I've never put metal spurs in any of my kits and the only times I've stripped them is like I said above. Issue with excessive drag in the driveline (generally from bearings going/gone bad or having my motor slip in the motor mount.

I also think its a terrible idea to use red loctite on a kit anywhere. I did that once and tore up a couple of wrenches trying to get it free. I use blue first and if for some rare reason that doesn't seem to be good enough (Almost always is) then I use orange.

Just my .02 on that


I like them too


If you like using the SS plate and you want it to wheelie better you can always drop to a smaller tooth pinion. That will help it wheelie better

The X is the first traxxas rc that comes with metal spur. But it's almost aluminum. I personally always use harden steal gears. Nothing else though only gears..and useing metal on metal a little grease should be used. And It all comes down to the mesh of them honestly. I got the plastic stock 54 spur on my Mashup T/Emaxx. Has no problems..Ooo orange loctite didn't even think of that nore do they sell it at stores near me interesting ..

I think that he might have it in training mode. I can't see 10oz. Being enough weight for Holding down the front end of the X. From doing wheelies. You just tap the throttle the front wheels come off the ground all day. Even when the batteries are low. Don't think it has to do with the SS plates..
See the stock gear it's metal not sure what metal but it's metal

 

[Greywolf74]

The X is the first traxxas rc that comes with metal spur. But it's almost aluminum. I personally always use harden steal gears. Nothing else though only gears..and useing metal on metal a little grease should be used. And It all comes down to the mesh of them honestly. I got the plastic stock 54 spur on my Mashup T/Emaxx. Has no problems..Ooo orange loctite didn't even think of that nore do they sell it at stores near me interesting ..

I think that he might have it in training mode. I can't see 10oz. Being enough weight for Holding down the front end of the X. From doing wheelies. You just tap the throttle the front wheels come off the ground all day. Even when the batteries are low. Don't think it has to do with the SS plates..
See the stock gear it's metal not sure what metal but it's metal

Didnt know they came with metal spurs stock but to me thats just asking for trouble. My K8 is 10lbs heavier than the X and has a plastic spur that works just fine. I dont see why Traxxas would do that

 

[STONER RC]

Didnt know they came with metal spurs stock but to me thats just asking for trouble. My K8 is 10lbs heavier than the X and has a plastic spur that works just fine. I dont see why Traxxas would do that

I don't know why Traxxas does alot of things. The VXL esc line also has 3 different mode settings. They make great RCs but really need to hire some new electrical engineers to do something with their electronics... You can do a better job then the people they have in their Electronics department. You should ask or tell them they are doing it wrong and you will show them how it's done....

 

[armykyle1]

I'll probably use my blue gel style loctite first. I've had good luck with it in automotive uses and it doesn't make a mess. I even used it on my buddy's plazmaman intake manifold that sees 28psi under full boost. Even suspension and brake bits, it's done well.

I honestly assumed all these big ass RCs came with metal gears lol. Looking at the spare gear my xmaxx came with, it's definitely some type of cheap powdered metal, which can definitely be weaker than plastic alternatives.

 

[STONER RC]

it's definitely some type of cheap powdered metal, which can definitely be weaker than plastic alternatives.

Yeah no clue what it's made of to be honest. But it's definitely not a good material for a gear. Whatever it's made from. Your extra gear is like or is the spur gear above? Yeah some plastic gears are probably much stronger then whatever you want to call it... that's for sure

 

[armykyle1]

Yeah no clue what it's made of to be honest. But it's definitely not a good material for a gear. Whatever it's made from. Your extra gear is like or is the spur gear above? Yeah some plastic gears are probably much stronger then whatever you want to call it... that's for sure

Looks exactly like those. 46t or 48 I can't remember