Revo 3.3 Engine upgrade, which engine mount?

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I have a revo 3.3 that i am going upgrade with lrp 32 spec 4. Which engine mount could i use?
I heard about new era, but it seem impossible to find.
 
Pretty sure there are some you can use a roto-start on, the traxxas one. You can find them on ebay with a pretty high price tag:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-era-Bi...3-3-Revo-Slayer-Pro-Truck-RC-Car/254262397768

There was a guy on here that made a few. I sent him mine to use as a template, then he started selling them on ebay, but that was years ago. I don't see any of his on there anymore. They were the same dimensions as the new era, which lifts the entire engine up so the arm doesn't hit the pull starter. His were a one piece whereas the new era was a 3 piece.
 
Thx, for the reply. My current engine is an OFNA JL .28 MAX. I broke the pull-starter and since OFNA is out business its impossible to get a matching pull-starter.

Thats why I'm looking for an engine upgrade. It would be interesting to know which engine the Traxxas big block mount could handle. The New Era its very expensive compared to the traxxas one.
 
Yes, but the new era can work with any big block. It wasn't all that cheap when new era was around either. I think I paid $60 for mine, then $70 for the THS BB revo pipe and still had to modify the header to fit the pipe because it was made to work with the lower traxxas mount.

Still, it let me graduate from engine to engine to find one that worked well for me. My first as an OS21RG, which by todays standards is a very weak engine. Then an XTM 24.7 and now the LRP28. Have had the LRP28 in it for quite a few years. I did have a modified/cut up LST2 header, but I fiddled with it a bit over the winter when I found the original THS header that went with the THS pipe I had. I decided to just cut it up as well to make for better flow/fitment as the LST2 header kinked a bit when I tried bending it.

What's broken on your pull-start? Rope? Spring? OWB? The rope and spring are usually repairable.
 
The spring broke on the pullstarter, which happend two years ago and after that the truck has just been resting and collecting dust. I am using the THS pipe and Buku clutch.

Is this the new era mount?

If i can just a confirmation that i can fit the LRP .32 with the new era mount in revo.
 
The spring broke on the pullstarter, which happend two years ago and after that the truck has just been resting and collecting dust. I am using the THS pipe and Buku clutch.

Is this the new era mount?

If i can just a confirmation that i can fit the LRP .32 with the new era mount in revo.

If it says that it is for a B-block ,then it should work ,I just dont know why it cost that much ,but it does
say make offer ,an maybe you can get it for ,$ 70.00 bucks!...:cool:
 
The spring broke on the pullstarter, which happend two years ago and after that the truck has just been resting and collecting dust. I am using the THS pipe and Buku clutch.

Is this the new era mount?

If i can just a confirmation that i can fit the LRP .32 with the new era mount in revo.
No, it isn't. That's a one piece mount someone made. Guessing it's similar dimensions to the NE mount though. Looking at them side by side, they appear similar dimensions. His description states it will work with any big block with a pull-start without modifying the arms. Also has some material removed to lighten it a bit.
Actual NE mount he has listed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-era-Bi...397768?hash=item3b33384b48:g:ghIAAOSwzWFc-y7x
vs
His other BB mount: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-...398175?hash=item3b33384cdf:g:BRcAAOSwVZBc-zFV

One benefit of the NE mount is that the bars that hold the engine ears can be adjusted to push the engine back, although, I never adjusted mine, I just shimmed the flywheel like normal and ended up moving the transmission 1/4" or so forward so I could run a 1/8th clutch on it. Adjusting it back seemed like it would weaken it to me, so I did the chassis mod to slide the transmission instead.

@Racer 1966 was the guy that made one from my NE mount. This is one of the first ones he gave me since I let him use my mount to make the template:
2013-0517-Racer1966-RevoBBMount02.jpg


You can see that the arms the engine rests on are solid and part of the mount:
2013-0517-Racer1966-RevoBBMount01.jpg

I believe it's solid underneath on the arm part that goes in the engine cradle support, aside from the holes from front to back.

You can see the NE mount has bolts holding those ears on:
2012-0827-RevoThrottleLink-NewEraGuide.jpg


The NE mount off the truck:
2009-0713-RevoNewEraBBMount.jpg


Surprised I don't have a photo of the 2 mounts side by side... isn't like me to not take pictures of things to compare. Guess I was too excited to install it. lol!

After installing @Racer 1966's mount, I never put my NE mount back on, but I keep in in case I want to convert my second revo over. For now, I have an OS21TM in it.

Those photo's are all mine with an LRP28S3 in it.

For what it's worth, after running the BB, I bent the chassis in the engine bay quite frequently and eventually cracked one. I found the M2C engine bay brace and haven't had that happen since, but I haven't driven a ton since the install. I usually run my 21TM revo when I want to run one of my nitro revos.
 
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Oh my god! This is more expensive than then engine itself!!
 
I bought the NE mount from the guy on ebay.

I read on the other forums that you have to move the gearbox forward. Does this apply to the lrp .28?
 
You don't have to if you use the revo flywheel/clutch/bell, but you do if you want to swap out to 1/8th scale flywheel/clutch/bell. I did that on my BB revo as the smaller 2 shoe couldn't hold up very well.

On my 21TM revo, I run dynamite max life shoes for traxxas. It does ok. I bought it used and it came with MIP center cvd's, so I couldn't move the trans forward without sacrificing those and going back to stock sliders.

On my very first revo, I had a 18TM in it and moved the trans so I could run a 1/8th setup on it. So later when I converted it to BB, I had the trans already moved for 1/8th clutch and stayed with that.

At the very least, I'd suggest finding some decent 7075 shoes if you want to stick with the stock flywheel/bell and not move the transmission.

I've had 3 nitro revos and kind of lost track what I did with each. My very first one I put the 18TM in it, then sold it. The VDK didn't exist yet and I was busting shocks all the time and the chassis would crack under the engine mount from jumping. I sold it as a roller... then later got another one, but it was a "slayer", which I eventually converted to a normal 3.3 chassis revo and big block. lol!

Then I got another as I wanted to try the 3.3... I really tried liking it with a 3.3 in it... it has the 21TM in it now.
 
You don't have to if you use the revo flywheel/clutch/bell, but you do if you want to swap out to 1/8th scale flywheel/clutch/bell. I did that on my BB revo as the smaller 2 shoe couldn't hold up very well.
Do you know if you have to move the gearbox on the lrp .30 and 32?
 
Then i will go for the LRP .32 ;)
 
Make sure to order the RRP steel trans gears. Stock will not last long with that. They didn't even make it through break-in with my 21TM.
 
Make sure to order the RRP steel trans gears. Stock will not last long with that. They didn't even make it through break-in with my 21TM.
Already fitted. But thx for the help ?
 
@olds97_lss

What clutch system are you using? Because on the previous engine i were using buku clutch system. The problem is that the nut is a different thread pitch. I might made a rookie mistake here ;(
 
On my BB revo, I'm running an HPI savage 3 pin flywheel, HPI alloy shoes and springs from the XL and an OFNA 1/8th bell.
On my SB revo, I'm running the stock 2 pin flywheel with a dynamite max life shoe set that uses the traxxas long spring. Also a traxxas bell.
 

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