I found out why I'm not using my King Cab! It's this wheel in the back. I want to straighten it out, my truck has sat for a few months...

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King Cab

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... and then, I need to go on Amazon.com and get some of the wonderful 7.2V batteries with Tamiya connector, and a charger.

The reason I'm not using the truck is that I have decided I just cannot enjoy it 1000% with the back wheel "Cambered In." I bought this like 5 to 6 years ago and never touched it until September/October. Replaced the radio thing with the 2.4GHz FlySky, as mentioned. Ran the one remaining battery I have and still use the MRC Quick Charger.... . I need something I can plug into the wall like regular and oh, like, 5 batteries. But. I want to fix that back wheel.

Let me snap a shot and e-mail it to myself then post it here so you all can see, and tell me how to do it. I straight up forgot.
 
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i would un-thread one of the ball joints to extend the top link longer, or find a camber link or tie rod from another car that is similar enough length. they can be rotated in place to adjust camber, instead of taking one end off the car and rotating it.
 
I only see an adjustable link for the camber. I'm not sure about this one, but it's possible that it's a pre-set toe in without the adjustable link.
That square rod on the bottom could be replaced with an adjustable link of the approximate size. That's the only way you could adjust it.

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^ Probably, yes, to all of the above!!!

The issue I have, is.. Well, of course I ran it about a month, maybe a month and a half... my charging set up leaves a lot to be desired, and I can waste a charge in under 10 minutes. That's minor impedement #1. But, I noticed, that, I just can't bring myself to keep running my baby with all that shear force on that arm. Surprised I didn't rip it off.

I also forgot how to do these things.. Last time I did this was when I was like 10-12.. Can anyone tell me how someone that forgot to do these adjustments.. does it?

Obviously it's a Tamiya King Cab, I bought someone's upgraded motor custom, they obviously got another body for it somehow (Chevy Silverado) but that's fine... I still will run it, but when those wheels are straight.. SPEED! :D
 
Almost makes me wonder if the a arms were installed flipped. Easy way to tell, take one side off, flip it and re-install.

First glance seems me to think you're right, you'd think the lower and upper could be adjusted, but even in looking how to adjust the top.. If that thread comes out too much it just won't work.

I'll post close-up pics tomorrow? It won't be bad weather (rain and wind and cold, for no reason) here forever! (Half the days are nice, half of them are torrential downpours with wind gusts 50MPH.)
 
I guess you and I posted together. If it had the adjustable link for the toe-in it would be obvious. This one doesn't have it.
 
You could also shorten that square rod and drill a new hole to ease up on the amount of toe in.

Yep! You got me just before I meander about and try to sleep, even though I suddenly feel not tired. I'm all screwed up lol.

It seems like such an easy thing to adjust.. I'm just basically back at Total Newb status, and haven't done it in awhile. Don't want to screw up a thing!!!!

Close-up pics of each wheel tomorrow? :) (*I leave the plastic on because part O.C.D. and part of me thinks if it ever gets dirty for some reason, it will go on the plastic.)
 
It's not as simple as threading out that piece on the top, is it? I remember, sometimes those things were hard to put back on. And it seems like it would be too short. If you don't leave enough thread, it will come out. And I'm almost sure there is threadlocker on it. I remember some of those parts from when I was a kid... I have no special tools now...
 
The top piece with the threaded on ball connectors is for the camber, or tilt. The square rod on the bottom is at a fixed length for the factory toe-in setting. Measure the length of the square rod and get two adjustable links. Remove the rods and replace them with the links and you will now be able to adjust them.
 
It's not as simple as threading out that piece on the top, is it? I remember, sometimes those things were hard to put back on. And it seems like it would be too short. If you don't leave enough thread, it will come out. And I'm almost sure there is threadlocker on it. I remember some of those parts from when I was a kid... I have no special tools now...


I would measure them ,then buy you some slightly longer rods ,there is way better turn buckle out
on market that you can use!
 
I'm not talking about adjusting anything. Take the A arm completely off the truck, and flip it over then re-install. Your rear tires should not have that much toe in when viewed from the top down.
 
After reading @HPIguy's post above, I looked at the pics again. That's not a fixed rod where you can change it to a turnbuckle setup, that's actually the A-arm. Everything I suggested is now null and void. I'm leaving the room now. Head down, tail between legs.
 
Looking at pics of other King cabs the a-arms are on right. Looks weird that they are built with that much toe-in. He does have a custom back end though a Traxxas 2wd transmission, axles and hub carriers. As suggested above measure the link and get a turnbuckle adjustable link to fix the camber. May have to replace the ball heads with bolts or other ball heads depending on what adjustable link you buy.
 
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